Tips on Raised Bed Gardening

Raised Bed Gardens

Tiered Raised Bed

How to Make a Raised Bed Garden

Raised bed gardens are the saviors of gardeners with poor soil everywhere. The basic idea of a raised bed is that instead of battling against poor soil conditions, you build above ground, where you have absolute control over the soil texture and ingredients.

What is a Raised Bed Garden?

A raised bed garden is a garden built on top of your native soil, sometimes incorporating native soil, sometimes not. Raised bed gardens can be contained, such as when you build a wood or stone structure to keep the bed intact, or they can be more free form, with soil and amendments merely piled several inches high. You can plant anything from herbs and vegetables to perennials and shrubs in a raised bed.

Advantages of a Raised Bed Garden

Aside from avoiding the issue of gardening in poor soil, raised bed gardens offer several advantages:

• Raised beds warm more quickly in spring, allowing you to work the soil and plant earlier.
• Raised beds drain better.
• The soil in raised beds doesn’t get compacted, because they are constructed with accessibility in mind.
• It’s easy to tailor the soil for your raised bed to the plants you plan to grow there.
• After the initial construction process, raised beds require less maintenance than conventional garden beds.

How to Make a Raised Bed Garden

Contained raised beds are the most popular type of raised beds, and they’re great for vegetable and herb gardens, as well as flower gardens. Fruits, such as strawberries, grapes, blueberries, and raspberries, also do very well in a contained raised bed.

You can choose from a variety of materials to construct your raised bed. Wood is a very popular choice, because it is easy to work with and it is inexpensive. Concrete blocks, natural stone, or brick are also nice options, but there is definitely an added expense and labor to consider in using them. Some gardeners go the ultra-simple route, and simply place bales of hay or straw in whatever configuration they desire, then fill it with good soil and compost and plant it up. This solution will only give you a year of use, because the straw will decompose, but it’s worth trying if you don’t mind replacing the bales yearly, or if you’re still developing a more permanent solution.

Since most contained raised beds are constructed from wood, here are instructions for building your own wood raised bed garden.

Step One: Select your site. If you know that you’ll be growing vegetables or herbs, or sun-loving flowers in your new garden, select a site that gets at least eight hours of sun per day. A flat, level area is important, and you should also make sure that the area has easy access to water sources as well as room for you to work.

Step Two: Determine the size and shape of your garden. Make sure that you can access all parts of the garden without stepping into the bed. One of the main advantages of a raised bed is that the soil doesn’t get compacted the way it might in a conventional bed because they are planned for accessibility.

It is a good idea to keep the garden to around four feet wide, because this way you can access the middle of the bed from either side. If you’re placing your bed against a wall or fence, it should be no more than three feet wide. Any length you like will work, as long as you keep the width in control.

In terms of depth, six inches is a good start, and many vegetables grow well in a bed that is six inches deep. As with many things, though, if you can do more, more is better! Ten to twelve inches would be ideal. If you have decent subsoil (not too clayey or rocky) you can simply loosen the soil with a garden fork and build a six to eight inch deep bed. If your soil is bad, or you are planning to grow crops like carrots or parsnips that need a deeper soil, your bed should be at least ten inches deep.

Step Three: Prep Your Site. Once you know the size and shape of your bed, you can get to work prepping the site. How much prep you will have to do is determined by the depth of the bed you’re planning, as well as the plants you’re planning to grow there. If you are planning a vegetable or herb garden, a six-inch deep bed is perfect.

To save yourself some labor, you can use newspaper, landscape fabric, or cardboard to cover and smother it, then put your soil and amendments right on top. However, to ensure that your plant’s roots have plenty of room to grow, it is a good idea to dig out the existing sod and loosen the soil with a shovel or garden fork to a depth of eight to twelve inches.

Step Four: Construct the Bed. Using rot-resistant lumber such as cedar or one of the newer composite lumbers, construct your bed. Two by six lumber is perfect, as it is easy to work with and will give you six inches of depth. Cut your pieces to the desired size, then attach them together to make a simple frame. You can attach them in a variety of ways. You can make a simple butt joint at each corner, pre-drilling and then screwing the corners together with galvanized screws. You can use a small piece of wood in the corner,and attach each side to it.

Step Five: Level Your Frames. Using a level, make sure your frame is level in all directions. This is a necessary step because if your bed is not level, you will have a situation where water runs off of one part of the garden and sits in another. If part of your frame is high, just remove some of the soil beneath it until you have a level frame.

Step Six: Fill Your Garden. The whole point of a raised bed garden is that it gives you the opportunity to garden in perfect soil. Take this opportunity to fill your bed with a good mixture of quality topsoil, compost, and rotted manure. Once they’re filled and raked level, you’re ready to plant or sow seeds.

Maintaining a Raised Bed Garden

Happily, raised bed gardens require very little maintenance. Each spring or fall, it’s a good idea to top dress with fresh compost and manure, or, if your bed only holds plants for part of the year, go ahead and dig the compost or manure into the top several inches of soil. As with any garden, mulching the top of the soil will help retain moisture and keep weeds down. Moisture retention is important, because raised beds tend to drain faster than conventional beds.

Raised bed gardening refers to gardening in soil that has been mounded or contained higher than the surrounding soil. Raised bed gardening is an old gardening practice, but it’s currently growing in popularity again because it offers several advantages to simply growing your plants in level ground.

You Control the Soil

Obviously this will be good for your plants, since you can bring in the best garden soil. Never walking on the soil means it will forever be light and aerated, not compacted. It’s also good for the gardener because there is no tilling necessary! And even if your local soil is the worst clay or rock, your raised garden bed will won’t need to be amended and worked every year.

More Vegetables and/or Flowers

You can squeeze more into a raised bed because you don’t need to leave room for paths. You never walk in the beds, you just lean into them. Keep this in mind when you’re building a raised bed and don’t make it any wide than you can reach.

Good Drainage

Ever hear the expression ‘well drained soil’? Of course you have. Because raised beds are elevated, the soil drains more rapidly than garden soil. You can work in the spring, when your yard is still mud and rainy days won’t be lost days in the garden. Of course this also means they can dry out faster, but raised beds are also easier to water than open gardens. The smaller area is perfect for installing drip irrigation. Even if you use a garden hose, you’ll be wasting less water and taking less time than watering traditional garden beds.

Critter Control

It’s much, much easier to keep burrowing animals out of a raised bed. Just line the bottom of the raised bed with hardware cloth or chicken fencing. Repellents can usually be sprayed just around the perimeter. You can even cover the whole bed with bird netting.

Easy on the Back

Every inch the bed is raised is one less inch you’ll need to bend. In fact, physically challenged gardeners and wheelchair gardeners can keep on gardening when beds are raised to a reachable height. I can see raised beds getting higher as we get older.

Building a Raised Bed

Raised beds are easy enough to construct. The simplest raised beds are just four boards joined together in a square. Cedar, redwood, the new pressure treated woods and even newer synthetic boards all weather well for several years. You can even get resourceful and build your bed out of bales of hay, cinder blocks or whatever’s handy.

Raised Bed Herb Gardens

Herbal gardening in raised beds is a great way to ensure a healthy herb. Find out ways to create your raised beds, special considerations when choosing the right location, soil and plants. You can also find out how to make the most of any size raised bed. If you want to make a raised bed herb garden, this is the place to find out how!

Growing and healing w/ Cabbage

Cabbage

Green Cabbage

Cabbages are planted in early spring and harvested before the peak heat of summer. Late crop cabbages are planted mid-summer and harvested in the fall. Cabbage plants are grown from seed. If you buy transplants make sure there are no black spots or wilted leaves. Cabbage should not be planted where another member of the mustard family has been growing within the past two years. Cabbages are heavy feeders and appreciate a fertile soil enriched with good compost or a balanced organic fertilizer.

If grown from seed outdoors, sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and three inches apart. Seeds will germinate in one to two weeks. Warm days and cool nights are ideal for seedling germination and development. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to one-foot centers.

Growing seeds inside the house and then transplanting them outside also works well. Cabbage seeds are typically sown about 6 weeks before the last anticipated frost occurs and transplanted to the garden a few weeks before the last frost is anticipated and about 4 to 6 weeks after germinating. Plant early crop cabbages 12 inches apart and at least 24 inches between the rows.

Cabbage prefers full sun and moist well-drained soil rich in organic matter such as compost or manure. Water transplanted cabbage frequently, but do not let the soil remain saturated. Keep the soil cool using mulch straw. When the head start to form mound the earth up against the stems to help stabilize the plants. The key to growing great cabbages is to provide a rich soil and to irrigate as required to insure that the plants have all the nutrients and moisture needed for rapid and uninterrupted growth.

Cabbage is a cool season crop, and thrives in cooler temperatures. Hot and humid conditions will cause cabbage to rot. Subsequently, it is one of the earliest crops that can be planted in the spring, but not too early. Cabbage plants will survive a hard frost but not a freeze. Several days or nights of colder temperatures will cause cabbage plants to produce an elongated terminal stem, a condition known as bolting that eventually produces a seed head.

Harvesting and Storage

Harvest the heads when they are large, solid and firm to the touch, usually about 2 to 3 months after planting, depending on the variety. Remove loose or yellow leaves from the heads and store under cool conditions–32 degrees Fahrenheit with 100% humidity is ideal. Late crop cabbage can be stored for 5 to 6 months. Early crop cabbages have a shorter storage time, typically only a month.

Heads can be harvested whenever they reach the desired size but will also hold nicely in the garden after the cabbages reach maturity.

Heads left in the garden too long will often begin to split. You can slow maturity and delay splitting by pruning the roots. Simply drive a spade into the soil around the heads to sever the roots of the growing cabbage plants

At planting time, protect transplants with cutworm collars. Use row covers to control cabbageworm. Aphids are a sign of heat or water stress; hose them off with a strong spray of water or spray plants with insecticidal soap. To avoid soil borne diseases, don’t plant cabbage-family plants (Brussels sprouts, kale, cauliflower, and broccoli) in the same area more than once every three years.

Special Tips: Cut early and mid-season cabbage high on the plant, leaving as many loose lower leaves as possible. As many as six small cabbages will form on the stem and provide a second harvest.

Pests:

Cabbage worms are the larval form of the Cabbage White butterfly. It is useful to know what both the larva and the butterfly look like, because seeing either near your plants most likely means that you’ll start seeing damage to your brassica’s (such as cabbage, broccoli, and kale.) Check out my website for what the stages of the moth look like.

Cabbage Butterfly/Moth: off-white wings, with one or two grayish-black spots per wing. The wingspan is roughly two inches across.

Larva/Cabbage Worm (which is the form that does the actual damage): velvety green, inchworm-type caterpillar that is roughly one inch long.

Eggs: These will be found on the undersides of leaves, and are yellow and oval-shaped.

Signs of Cabbage Worm Infestation:

Because of their voracious appetite, an “infestation” can be as few as two or three worms per plant. Look for holes being chewed from the centers of leaves in kale and cabbage, as well as entry holes chewed to the interior of heads of cabbage. In particular, look on the undersides of leaves, because this is where the cabbage worms usually hang out. They also produce dark green droppings that are fairly noticeable.

Effect on Garden Plants:

A serious infestation can result in the death of the plant, since the more leaves that the cabbage worm manages to eat means that the plant’s ability to photosynthesize is reduced. A minor infestation can make plants look unsightly, but they are still edible. Just wash them carefully and inspect cabbage and broccoli for any cabbage worms that have made their way to the interior of the heads.

Organic Controls for Cabbage Worms:

Check your plants frequently for worms, especially if you have seen the butterflies nearby. Check plants thoroughly, and hand-pick and destroy any worms you find.

To prevent infestation in the first place, protect your plants with floating row covers, especially in spring and early summer, when egg-laying activity is at its highest.

To prevent the worms from burrowing into cabbage heads, insert each head into a nylon stocking, and leave it on until you harvest the head. You can also sprinkle some cayenne pepper down into the head to repel the worms.

Press garlic and save the juice. Dilute it 50/50 with boiling water. Allow it to cool. Mist it on your cole crops to repel cabbage moths and kill cabbage worms. Be sure to mist the underside of the leaves and down into the head. For a heavy duty repellent, add garlic juice, crushed red pepper and allow it to steep in boiling water for about 20 minutes. Cool, strain and bottle. Apply as you would the garlic mist.

Companion planting to repel cabbage worms:

• Chamomile -plant only a few around cabbage and onions for better flavor.
• Dill – plant around cabbage and will improve growth and flowers will attract bees.
• Geranium -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn, and cabbage.
• Henbit -most insects will stay away from henbit.
• Hyssop – will deter cabbage moths if planted around cabbage and grapes and may improve growth for these plants.
• Hyssop – will deter cabbage moths if planted around cabbage and grapes and may improve growth for these plants.
• Onion -repels cabbage moths, aphids, weevils, carrot flies, and moles. Controls rust flies and some nematodes and tomatoes against red spiders. May alter growth of peas and beans. Plant near beets, tomato, lettuce, strawberry, cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower.
• Pennyroyal -deter ants, aphids, ticks, fleas, and cabbage maggots. Brussel sprouts, broccoli, and cabbage will benefit from pennyroyal.
• Rosemary -repels cabbage moths, beetles, mosquitoes, and slugs. Plant near beans, carrots, and cabbage.
• Sage -repels cabbage moths, carrot flies, and ticks. Carrots will love them.
• Thyme -repels cabbage worms, flea beetles, and cabbage maggots. Useful near cabbage.
• Wormwood -will deter black flea beetles, cabbage worm butterflies.

Healing Properties of Cabbage

Cabbage leaves are low in fat, high in fiber, protein, vitamins A, C, B6, K and folic acid.

The healing properties of cabbage have been known for generations, but with the onslaught of ‘modern medicine’, not many take advantage or are even aware of all that cabbage has to offer.

Uncooked Cabbage is high in glutamine, an amino acid that is essential for intestinal health. It has also been proven to be both antibacterial and antiviral. Cabbage contains Vitamin K (essential in the production of blood clotting proteins); potassium (helps regulate blood pressure); and quercetin (antioxidant that is a natural antihistamine that can benefit allergy sufferers).

One cup of blended cabbage juice contains millions of friendly bacteria.

Cabbage Juice is an excellent remedy for stomach ulcers. Slice off about ½ inch of the cabbage and put it into a blender. Add 1 cup of distilled water and blend for about a minute. Let it set for about 5 minutes and then drink it down, pulp and all.

Take about 3 cups a day w/ each meal. Most people see improvement as quick as 5 days after they begin drinking it. Continue to do this for about 2 weeks. As the cabbage juice relieves that pain of an ulcer, it may deceive you into thinking that the ulcer is already gone. Again, continue drinking the juice 3 times a day for at least 2 weeks to make certain that it has healed in full. Eliminate any foods that irritate the ulcer, usually fatty foods. This is crucial to complete healing.

Raw cabbage and cabbage juice relieves joint pain and swelling in my hands, and it works fast. Also know to cure dry, flaky skin and fatigue.

For breastfeeding moms, cabbage leaves and/or cabbage juice will help to reduce engorgement.

PMS symptoms –For sore breasts during pms or pregnancy place cabbage leaves in your bra and wear it overnight. The soreness will be gone in the morning.

OBESITY TREATMENT
Cabbage is considered to be an excellent home remedy for obesity. Research has shown cabbage contains a chemical called tartaric acid, which inhibits the conversion of sugar and other carbohydrates into fat. Substituting a meal with cabbage salad once a day is an excellent way to reduce weight.

CABBAGE CURES HEADACHES
Try eating raw cabbage to cure a headache. It is also a great cure for hangovers!

CABBAGE CAN HELP AN ENLARGED PROSTATE causing painful or dribbling urination
Recipe: Take common green cabbage, put it in boiling water, boil briefly until half cooked. Pour out half the water, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, salt and a little cumin. Bring to another boil for about 3 minutes. Eat the cabbage and drink the juice from this recipe immediately. Once a day is best.

FOR WOUNDS
Recipe: Sterilize the wound, then apply ground cabbage twice a day. Grind fresh cabbage and apply to wounds or sores. Fresh ground cabbage will also bring a boil to a head and make it burst.  Just grating a small portion of raw cabbage onto a bandage and leaving it overnight will draw out toxins/poisons/venom of bites and wounds. It will also aid in speeding up the healing of the area.

FOR BRUISING
Apply freshly ground cabbage to a bruise to heal it quickly.

FOR JOINT PAIN
Raw cabbage is one of the best vegetables you can take to ease inflammation of the joints. You can eat it however you like, just make sure it is fresh and uncooked! Herbalists suggest to eat fresh cabbage in the morning prior to any other food.

CABBAGE FOR BIRD FLU
Scientists at Seoul National University found that when they fed an extract of kimchi to 13 chickens infected with the bird flu, 11 of them recovered within a week. These same scientists previously proved that the lactic acid bacteria found in kimchi has an amazing anti-bacterial effect.

For more on cabbage please click here

Some Natural Antibiotics & Antiseptics

Carob powder is rich in tannins which manifest strong anti-viral properties and may work as well as antibiotics for certain bacteria-induced diseases, such as diarrhea.

Colloidal silver has been successfully used for over a century as a powerful antibiotic and is known to kill over 650 disease organisms. Many organisms live for only a few minutes in the presence of silver.

Grapefruit seed extract This extract is a powerful all-around antimicrobial product and is an excellent disinfectant. Grapefruit seed extract has a wide variety of uses and comes in a liquid, capsules and tablets. For antiseptic uses make a solution of 4-40 drops in four ounces of water and apply to the affected areas with a cotton ball two or three times a day or as a spray for larger areas. Can be used as a spray for babies. Carefully spray the area covered by diapers at each changing, being careful to keep out of the baby’s eyes. This should clear up any diaper rash in five to seven days.

Honey Researchers at the Waikato University in New Zealand have discovered the remarkable ability of honey as an antibacterial agent. Honey may be applied full strength or diluted as much as 10:1 and will completely halt the growth of all the major wound-infecting species of bacteria. They also found that honey was, in some cases, superior to antibiotics in dealing with drug-resistant strains of bacteria. Use for bites, stings, cuts or any topical infection.

Molkosan, a product derived from concentrated whey, the bi-product of cheese manufacture, has been used effectively against fungal infections and is an excellent antiseptic. The good results may be from the lactic acid and lactic enzymes. Use as you would iodine.

Olive leaf extract (calcium elenolate) The olive leaf contains a phytochemical called oleuropein, whose active ingredient, elenolic acid has shown powerful anti-bacterial and anti-viral effects. It has proven to be useful in cases of yeast and fungal infections, herpes, chronic fatigue, allergies and psoriasis. Since it works like a broad-spectrum antibiotic, it is useful against colds, flu, and upper respiratory and sinus infections. In addition, users have claimed that it can help lower blood sugar, normalize arrhythmias, inhibit oxidation of LDL (the bad cholesterol), and relax arterial walls, thereby helping to lower blood pressure. Other reported benefits are that it boosts energy and eases pain, such as from hemorrhoids, toothaches and arthritis.

St. John’s wort (hypericum) can also be used as an antiseptic. Dab it on externally.

Tea tree oil is an exceptional natural antibiotic. Tea tree oil, derived from the leaves of the native Australian Melaleuca alternifolia tree, contains antiseptic compounds that are a very effective skin disinfectant. Depending on severity, use 5-15% solutions daily. It has proven beneficial in treating acne, athlete’s foot, ringworm, jock itch, fungal infections of the toenail or fingernails, yeast infections, wound healing and bad breath, among others. For wound cleansing or a douche for yeast infections, make a 10% solution (about 1½ tablespoons to a cup of warm water). Make sure the product label says it is 100% pure tea tree oil.

Grow Your Own Italian Herb Garden–7 essential herbs

The rich delights of fine Italian cuisine is enjoyed everywhere in the world. The colorful array of flavors that excites the pallet can be largely attributed to the refined blend of herbs that has been grown by this fine nation for centuries in herb gardens

Almost everyone prepares Italian cuisine at home for their families and many grows the plants in their own garden to keep at hand a fresh and flavorful supply for preparing these wonderful meals. If you wish to start this fine hobby for yourself, this is a list of the 7 most used herbs to assure a complete authentic Italian herb garden.

1. Garlic is probably the most used herb to be grown in the garden and is the basic ingredient in many Italian dishes. One thing is certain, a garden that doesn’t grow garlic cannot be considered an Italian garden. This herb can be planted and will thrive requiring very little attention. Once harvested, they can be frozen or pickled and stored in the refrigerator for later use.

·        How to Grow Garlic at Home

Garlic is grown from the individual cloves. Each clove will produce one plant with a single bulb – which may in turn contain up to twenty cloves. Growing garlic is therefore self-sustaining.

When planting garlic, choose a garden site that gets plenty of sun and where the soil is not too damp. The cloves should be planted individually, upright and about an inch (25 mm) under the surface. Plant the cloves about 4 inches (100 mm) apart. Rows should be about 18 inches (450 mm) apart.

It is traditional to plant garlic on the shortest day of the year. Whether this is for symbolic or practical reasons is unclear.

When is the best time to plant garlic in the home garden? The answer is, “it depends”.

In the USA and Europe, garlic can be planted either in the early spring or late fall / early winter.

·        Spring Planting

Poor weather conditions often mean that spring planted garlic produces smaller bulbs. In addition the seed garlic must be chilled before planting in order to cause it to break out of its dormancy. That said, spring garlic planting can produce good results in the warmer Southern areas where it is often planted in late February or March. It also removes any possibility of the plant being damaged by the winter cold.

·       Autumn / Fall Planting

In more Northerly areas it more common to plant garlic towards the end of the year. In Europe there is a tradition of planting garlic on the shortest day of the year, however this is probably more for symbolic reasons than horticultural ones.

The usual advice to gardeners is to plant fall garlic soon after the first major frost of the year, usually between mid-October and late November depending on your local climate. Garlic is generally winter hardy, however can be damaged if the temperatures are very cold and the snow cover thin. If this is the case, cover the garlic with straw to protect it.

If all is well then the shoots of fall planted garlic should emerge from the ground in early spring. If not then you still have the opportunity to plant a spring crop.

·        Harvesting Your Garlic Crop

As garlic reaches maturity, the leaves will brown then die away. This is the cue that it is time to harvest your garlic crop. If you harvest too early the cloves will be very small, too late and the bulb will have split.

Proper handling of garlic after it’s been picked is almost as important as looking after it whilst it’s growing. It’s essential that garlic is dried properly, otherwise it will rot. The bulbs are often hung up in a cool, dry place. After a week or so, take them down and brush the dirt off gently – don’t wash the bulbs at this stage.

For centuries, garlic has been considered a “cure-all” and is said to be able to treat just about every ailment from the cold to the Plague!

• Acne – Most people at some point in their lives suffer from acne to some degree. Companies make a fortune selling facial washes and creams to help. The problem is that there are many reasons for acne including hormones, diet and stress. Although garlic on its own is unlikely to cure acne, it can certainly be used in conjunction with other treatments.

Garlic is thought to work because of its antibiotic and blood cleansing properties. When using garlic in your food, make sure your crush and chop it up. This will help release the active compounds. Another way to take garlic is by placing a few cloves in a bottle of olive oil and then drizzle it over a salad.

• Cardiovascular Health and High Cholesterol – If you enjoy eating Mediterranean or Far Eastern food you’ll notice that garlic is used a lot. The good news is that people from areas also have low incidences of cardiovascular disease.

Cholesterol can be a confusing area of health. On one hand it is essential whilst on the other hand it can kill us. This is because there are two types of Cholesterol – HDL and LDL. The latter type is considered bad. Modern medicine has found that garlic contains allicin which scavenges hydroxyl radicals (OH). This is thought to prevent LDLs from being oxidized.

• Antioxidant – Allicin naturally increases antioxidant enzymes atalase and glutathione peroxidase in your blood. It can help against the damaging effects of nicotine and slows the aging process of your liver by inhibiting lipid peroxidation.
• Anti-Bacterial – Garlic has 1% of the potency of penicillin and can ward off a number of bacteria such as Listeria, Salmonella, E. coli, Cryptococcal meningitis, Candida albican and Staphylococcus. The problem with most antibiotics is that bacteria develops resistance to them, however this is not the case with garlic.

These benefits were first realized back in the early 19th century when English priests caught infectious fever. The French priests, who ate garlic everyday, didn’t.

• Blood Clots – Clinical trials, which were published in the Journal of Hypertension, showed that the blood pressure of volunteers was reduced 1 – 5% after taking garlic supplements. This may not sound a lot but this small reduction can reduce the chance of a stroke by 30-40% and heart disease by 20-25%
• What about Garlic Breath?

Despite all the health benefits of garlic you may feel that “garlic breath” is too much of a deterrent. If this is the case you can take Odorless Garlic Supplement instead.

• Some Pointers about Garlic:-

• Garlic is most effective when crushed or chopped and when raw.
• One clove a day will improve your health and 2-3 cloves will help prevent a cold.
• When cooking garlic wait until the last 10 minutes of cooking to add the garlic.
• Be careful about taking too much as it can irritate your digestive system.
• Don’t microwave garlic as this kills the active ingredients.
• Don’t take garlic instead of a healthy balanced diet.
• Garlic supplements may interact with certain drugs such as anticoagulants.
• Always consult a doctor if you are unsure about anything.

2. Basil is among the most commonly used herb. Its distinctive flavor is the soul of Italian cuisine and it also offers certain benefits to the garden itself. This herb repels flies and mosquitoes in the garden and, if planted nearby, will improve the taste of tomatoes and peppers.

How to Grow Basil –

From the mint family sweet basil is the most popular variety and one of the easiest herbs to grow. Grown in the outdoor garden, basil is a tender annual that needs harvesting at season’s end.

However, you can also grow basil in an indoor herb garden and have fresh basil year round.

Basil in Containers

Aromatic Herbs in Containers are a superb way to have them handy year around. Even your annual herbs are doing well in pots, but stick to one species per container. Growing Herbs is a great hobby that can have has nice gastronomical and health effects.

Basil and Thyme are the perfect couple, and are a great pair to grow together.

Planting Basil in Your Garden  – The Plant Loves Sun

transplanting basil seedlings

Basil seedlings are spindly and fragile, which makes transplanting difficult. The easiest way to add basil to your outdoor garden is from seed.

start basil early spring

Start in the spring once all danger of frost is past. Basil, like other mints, is a sun-loving plant that isn’t too fussy about the soil it occupies as long as it is moisture retentive with good drainage.

Garden grown basil seldom needs fertilization. Once established, it is also quite drought resistant. However, if you do water, tepid water will promote faster growth than cold water.

In addition to sweet basil, choose your seeds from over 160 varieties in a range of fragrances that include lemon, licorice, and cinnamon as well as the minty-fresh fragrance of traditional sweet basil. Foliage colors range from the traditional green to deep purple and many cultivars also bloom with attractive flowers.

Growing From Seed

Cover seeds with about ¼ inch of soil, water, and you should see sprouts in about a week. Once seedlings develop a half-dozen leaves, thin your row so transplants are six to twelve inches apart.

Care for Basil Seedlings

When seedlings are about six inches tall, pinch off the tops to promote more leaf growth and keep your basil from becoming “leggy”. You can also begin harvesting basil when it is young and sweet.

Cut single leaves just about anytime. If cutting whole stems, make the cut above a pair of leaves. New growth will continue and preserve the plant for future use. In fact regular use of your basil can substitute for pruning, which is necessary to keep stems moist and tender and keep plants from becoming woody. In addition, be sure to pinch off blossoms as they appear.

Because basil is a mint, it can be very invasive. While basil needs to be weed-free, it also needs to be kept under control or your herb garden may end up being your basil bed!

Harvesting Basil

At the end of an outdoor growing season, harvest the remainder of your basil by cutting the stems and freezing or drying them for winter use.

• Add aroma to your kitchen. Bind stems together and hang bunches to air dry. Dry individual leaves on a cookie sheet. After they’re dry, crumble them and store them in a covered glass jar. If moisture develops, immediately remove and dry longer. Either a sieve or a paper towel works well to re-dry crumbled basil.
• Freezing basil helps preserve its fresh-from-the-garden flavor. Freeze harvested basil whole in plastic freezer bags to easily break or cut the exact amount you need to add flavor to any recipe. Also freeze chopped basil leaves in an ice cube tray as “basil cubes”, an easy way to add fresh flavor to soups and stews.

Grow Basil in a Container

Plant container grown basil in a similar way to how you sow seed in your garden. Growing basil indoors is packed with several advantages in addition to fresh flavor for culinary purposes.

Consider planting several different varieties in a strawberry pot. This keeps each variety in place, and if you choose cultivars with various fragrances, foliage, and flower attributes, you’ll have fresh grown potpourri as well as eye-candy for your kitchen!

To plant basil in a strawberry pot, fill the pot with dirt to the first opening. Plant seeds in that opening and water. Continue the same method to the top of your pot, planting a few seeds for each cultivar in each opening. Plant sweet basil in the top of the pot since it is the one you probably most often will use in cooking.

Container grown basil does have some special needs over that grown in the garden.

• Use well-drained, nutrient rich potting soil and check the pH every four to six weeks. Although basil isn’t fussy about soil composition, it will grow best in a soil with about a 6.0 to 7.5 pH. Maintain pH with a good organic fertilizer at about half the recommended strength on the label.
• Keep the earth moist, but not soggy. After watering, drain excess water from the plant saucer.
• If a sunny window isn’t available, grow your basil under artificial lighting. Ten to twelve hours a day under a fluorescent shop fixture is an economical way to provide your plants with the light requirements they need.

Historically, the healing properties of basil have been a much talked about subject.

Many years ago, some physicians claimed that scorpions would breed in your brain if you even smelled basil, whereas others could not praise basil highly enough for its healing properties in drawing poison from the body and giving courage and strength. Even today, basil is renowned for its mood-enhancing properties.

There are many healing properties and uses for basil that have proven themselves by surviving the test of time.

• Basil has sedative and calming qualities. A basil sandwich, for example, will help to alleviate anxiety.
• Use basil as a gargle for clearing mouth infections – pop a handful of basil in 250ml of boiling water and allow to stand for 5 minutes.
• Basil healing properties will help relieve the pain of tired and aching feet. Soak 2 cups of fresh basil leaves in 2 liters of water. Allow to cool and immerse feet for a good long soak. You can also crush the leaves and massage into your heels.
• It has been said, that a drop of basil juice from the leaves of the plant, has been very effective in the healing and relief of ear inflammation.
• Basil is also an antiseptic and antibacterial herb. Its healing properties can be used as a digestive aid to relieve nausea and an upset stomach.
• Basil is antispasmodic, so aids in the healing and relief of headaches and migraines, vertigo and even colic.
• As a culinary herb, basil is one of the most cleansing and helps with healing kidney and urinary problems.
• Basil provides a source of beta-carotene, estragole, eugenol, borneol and Vitamin C.

In Africa basil is used for healing in the removal of worms and in the Far East, as a cough medicine. In many countries basil is used in healing as an aid to childbirth and is also said to be an aphrodisiac.

Another use for the healing properties of basil was to crush the leaves and use them to draw the poison out from insect stings and bites.

Please note: I must stress the importance of consulting your doctor or homeopath before you embark upon any of the homemade herbal remedies.

3. Parsley is another herb that is widely used to garnish many dishes and can be eaten fresh and raw. An interesting fact about this herb is that it has the quality of absorbing the odors of ones breath after a tasty meal. This tradition is quite old and is still being practiced nowadays.

Growing Parsley

Growing Parsley can be slightly more of a challenge when compared to growing other herbs but it should still be a relatively simple process. Parsley is one of the most popular herbs that are grown in English and Mediterranean herb gardens. Parsley can be used for flavoring or as a garnish. It is also a good source of nutrition and can be used for neutralizing strong smelling breath (Garlic springs to mind).

Although Parsley is a biennial herb it is normally grown as an annual as results after the first year are poor.

Sowing

Growing parsley requires more patience than other herbs as it has a long germination period – around 3 to 4 weeks. Germination of parsley requires warm temperatures so a warm room is advised rather than outside. Because germinating parsley is trickier than most herbs you may wish to sow a number of seeds in a 4 inch pot in case some seeds don’t germinate. If a number of seeds germinate in one pot thin all but the strongest one seedling.

Parsley can be moved outside if required and can be transplanted into containers or well dug soil. If growing outside then sow your plants indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before you plan to move them outside.

Position

Parsley requires a good amount of light and will do best when receiving around 6 hours of sun a day but will tolerate partial shade.

Soil type

Parsley likes a well drained, moisture retaining soil. If growing in containers ensure that it has adequate drainage holes and that they aren’t blocked. Parsley is slightly more fussy about its soil requirements than most herbs, a soil rich in rotted organic matter with good levels of nutrients will result in a good crop.

If growing indoors then a normal potting compost will be sufficient.

Tending

Ensure the soil does not dry out – water more frequently in summer. You can add a mulch to the soil to reduce soil moisture loss and reduce competing weeds.

A fertilizer can be applied to the soil around every 4 weeks and this should sustain growth through the growing season.

Outside plants can be dug up and brought inside to extend their growing season. After the first year parsley will start to produce seed at which point the plant is of no use for harvesting purposes.

Harvesting

You can harvest Parsley fresh – both the stalks and leaves can be eaten. If you want to store or preserve your parsley you can dry it or freeze it as illustrated in our article on drying and storing herbs.

Cut the outermost stalks just above ground level. This will encourage further growth. Cutting near the top of the stalks will not encourage such vigorous re-growth.

Varieties

Both flat leaved parsley and curly leaved parsley varieties are available.

When to Transplant

Transplanting seedlings should be done after the plant itself has become established. Wait until your plant has grown true leaves. This means that the leaves begin to show texture. Be sure that when you transplant that the soil is warm so that your parsley will be able to take off quickly.

It is a good idea to not transplant your parsley when there is the threat of a frost. The initial shock of the transplant will be enough for your plant to deal with. A frost could ultimately kill freshly transplanted parsley.

Parsley is far more than just a decorative sprig gracing your dinner plate. A mild diuretic, it can be used to treat a number of ailments, including bad breath, and the common cold.

Packed with nutrients, parsley is a great source of dietary calcium, iron, vitamin C, and vitamin A, as well as beta-carotene, and folic acids.

Parsley was valued for its medicinal purposes long before it started appearing on plates. In ancient Greece, it was considered to be so sacred, it was used to adorn tombs.

Parsley has proved itself a potent medicinal herb. It has cancer-fighting volatile oil components including myristicin, limonene, eugenol, and alpha-thujene. Parsley is also rich in flavonoids with powerful anti-oxidant properties including apiin, apigenin, crisoeriol, and luteolin.

It is known to both detoxify and soothe the kidneys. Parsley’s roots and leaves have uterine tonic action, and can be used to treat a variety of menstrual complaints, including lack of or painful periods. It has been officially recognized in both British and US Pharmacopoeias and Codex for well over 100 years as aiding in regulating menstrual complaints.

In addition, parsley is a mild laxative, helps to lower blood pressure, and acts as an antimicrobial for a large array of organisms. The root is known to be especially helpful in preventing the formation of gallstones.

That parsley sprig may save your social life, so don’t leave it behind on your plate. Eating the leaves will reduce the odor of garlic, not only on the breath, but also secreting from the sweat glands.

How to Take Parsley

According to the first edition of the Physicians’ Desk Reference for Herbal Medicine (1998), parsley’s seeds have traditionally been made into a tea, and used as a remedy for colic, indigestion, and intestinal gas.

Parsley leaves can be added to tea as a gentle treatment for kidney problems, bladder infections, and to reduce mucus in the first stages of a cold and influenza. Ideal for children and adults alike, the tea comprises one teaspoon of parsley leaves and one teaspoon of raspberry leaves, seeped in one cup of boiled water for five to 10 minutes.

It can also be taken as a tincture (½ to 1 teaspoon, two times daily) or as a fresh juice (50 grams often mixed with other juices such as carrot).

Parsley leaves can be ground into a paste, mixed with water, and used on the skin to treat stings and insect bites.

Cautions

The leaves and root have been used for centuries, and are quite safe for most people. However, parsley root is discouraged during pregnancy, as a strong decoction of the root has been known to cause miscarriages. One of parsley’s primary constituents, myristicin, may also increase the heart rate of the fetus. If you are taking lithium, only take parsley under doctor’s supervision.

Parsley is a great nutrient that can add a kick to any salad, soup or savory dish, and simultaneously act as an all-round natural healer.

4. Oregano is a decorative and has a very distinctive flavor that is strong enough to hold its own in any meal. The herb will deliver the most flavor when harvested only once lovely small purple flowers start to sprout. Be patient, it is definitively worth the wait.

How to Grow Oregano

The difference in taste between fresh oregano and the store-bought dried variety is like night and day. Fresh oregano adds a boost of flavor that just can’t be beat. Commonly found in tomato-based dishes, oregano is a staple in Italian and Mediterranean cooking. It’s easy to grow either in your garden or indoors, from small plants or from seeds.

1. If you’re planting seeds, you can start them indoors in small seed pots a few weeks before the last frost of winter. Just sprinkle the seeds over your soil without covering them and give them a good mist of water. Let them sit in a sunny window until they germinate, about five to seven days.
2. Transplant the oregano plants you’ve started from seed, or those you purchase from a nursery, in the spring after the risk of frost has passed. Oregano can be grown in outdoor containers or transplanted into your garden.

Plant oregano in full sun and well-drained soil, about ten to twelve inches apart. These herbs don’t mind a dry soil and will actually adapt to most planting conditions as long as they get lots of sunshine. Water your oregano plants only during very dry periods.

You don’t need to add any fertilizer, compost or mulch to your oregano beds. Fertilizer is actually detrimental to the flavor of the herb.

As the plants begin to flower, pinch off the flower buds. This will allow the plants to grow a bit bushy and provide optimum flavor. The plants can grow quite wide as they creep along the ground, so scale the leaves and stems back as needed.

When your plants reach about four inches tall and have at least a dozen leaves, you can begin harvesting the leaves to use in your cooking. You can cut back the entire plant when it is about six inches tall to use the leaves; the oregano plant will begin to grow again, flower, and produce more leaves.

Pick your oregano leaves in the morning, just after the dew has dried on the leaves. Once the sun starts warming up the leaves, they begin to lose the oils that provide taste and aroma.

After harvesting, finely chop the leaves for use in cooking, or store them whole in plastic bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Oregano leaves can also be dried for longer storage.

At the end of the growing season, cut back your oregano plants and cover the area with mulch. They should last anywhere from two to four years, at which time they will start to get woody and need to be replaced.

Oregano is usually thought of as a culinary herb, but it has been used medicinally for thousands of years.  Try a Tea made with Oregano for indigestion, bloating, flatulence, coughs, urinary problems, bronchial problems, headaches, swollen glands, and to promote menstruation.

It has also been used in the past to relieve fevers, diarrhea, vomiting, and jaundice.  Unsweetened tea can be used as a gargle or mouthwash.  Alternatively, the leaves can be dried, pulverized, and made into capsule form for when it is inconvenient to make a tea.

Externally, Oregano leaves can be pounded into a paste (add small amounts of hot water or tea to reach the desired consistency – oatmeal may also be added for consistency purposes).  This paste can then be used for pain from rheumatism, swelling, itching, aching muscles, and sores.   For tired joints and muscles, put a handful of Oregano leaves in a coffee filter, mesh bag, or cheesecloth bag and run steaming bath water over it.  Allow it to steep in the tub with you as you relax in the warm, fragrant water.

An oil can be made with Oregano leaves to use for toothache pain.  Put a few drops on the affected tooth for relief.

Antioxidant Properties of Oregano

Oregano contains thymol and rosmarinic acid that work on the body to minimize the destructive effects of free radicals. According to researchers at the USDA’s Beltsville Agricultural Research Center in Maryland, a tablespoon of fresh oregano contains as much antioxidant power as a medium sized apple.

There is a lot of current medical interest in the ability of free radicals to help repair damage to the body on a cellular level and combat cancer, heart disease, high blood pressure, macular degeneration and help slow geriatric muscle deterioration.

Anti-Fungal Properties of Oregano

Historically used as a food preservative, oregano has some impressive credentials as an anti-fungal. Fungal infections can be nasty customers and even fatal in some circumstances. Oregano has been used as both an internal and external preparation in treating fungal infections and has been tested successfully in inhibiting the growth of yeasts like Candida albicans.

Antibiotic Properties of Oregano

Oregano might just be the little herb that can. A phenol in oregano, carvacrol is generating interest for its powerful ability to kill bacteria. Preliminary tests conducted at Georgetown University suggest that oregano’s antibacterial muscle may rival that of streptomycin and penicillin.

Other Medicinal Uses of Oregano

If you plan on keeping oregano in your medicine cabinet, there are some other uses for this herb that you should know about. Oregano can be used as a digestive aid because it encourages salivation. It can soothe bee stings and treat venomous spider and snakebites. Oregano is also an efficient pain reliever.

Cautions when Using Oregano

Although herbs and spices may appear benign because they are used in cooking, concentrated doses can lead to problems. Oregano has many medicinal applications that can help you get and stay well, but consult your doctor before making any changes or additions to the medications you are taking. Oregano can cause skin irritations in some people, and should be avoided if you are pregnant or nursing.

Oregano Fast Facts

• Oregano contains: iron, vitamin E, vitamin C, copper, magnesium, calcium, vitamin B6, niacin, thiamine and riboflavin.

• A native to the Mediterranean, Oregano is a perennial in the mint family. It is widely used as a seasoning in Italian dishes, including pizza sauce.

• Steep two tablespoons of fresh oregano in eight ounces of water for five minutes to create a refreshing antioxidant tea.

• Oregano is sometimes taken as a supplement to help avoid colds and flu.

• Oregano can be used to treat head lice.

• Oregano is a welcome addition to a long list of antioxidant rich herbs like garlic, thyme, peppermint and sage.

To derive the maximum benefit from supplements, use them within the first six months of purchase or less. Store supplements in a cool, dark place, and keep them away from moisture.

5. Sage is an herb that graces many different Italian recipes ranging from salads to meats. It is strongly advised to keep the plants well trimmed when growing this herb for the new shoots are the most flavorful part of the plant. You should harvest the sage plants only after they have bloomed.

How to Grow Sage

Where to Plant Sage

A native of the Mediterranean, sage reaches a mature height of about two feet, and likes to spread out. It is a hardy perennial that needs well-drained, alkaline soil and a sunny location. Sage can get woody as it gets older, so plan on replacing your plant every few years, as it will start to look leggy, droopy, and unattractive by the third year. Because sage also likes some room to grow, plant it at least two feet from other herbs and plants.

Sage leaves are naturally raised in an attractive pebbly pattern with a gray cast that makes them interesting visually. In summer, spikes of attractive lavender flowers complement this gray-green coloration.

Propagate Sage from Seed or Layering

Start sage indoors from seed in good quality potting soil. Slow to germinate, sage is a fast grower once it has been transplanted into the garden. With established plants, you can peg outer branches to the soil in spring and they will root without any additional effort. Rooting takes four to five weeks in summer. Separate these offshoots from the mother plant once they have a thriving root system. You can also start sage from stem cuttings that have been dipped in rooting compound. Sage is not a good candidate for rooting in water.

Grow Sage Indoors

Sage can be kept indoors indefinitely if it is maintained in a sunny location. Make sure that the plant pot drains well by adding potshards, stones, or marbles to the bottom layer in order to enhance drainage. Use a good quality, light potting soil, to which you have added bone meal.
Sage is low in calories and fat, as are all herbs, and can therefore be added to all meals without having to worry about putting on weight.

Sage is a very good source of Vitamin A, calcium, iron and potassium. Vitamin A and calcium are both especially important for maintaining healthy teeth, bones and skin.

Health benefits of sage

Sage has been used for hundreds of years to treat all kinds of ailments. It was particularly popular in 19th century French medicine but is still used today by many people who prefer to cure themselves with herbal medicines.

• It has recently been proven that taking sage can improve and enhance one’s memory.
• Sage contains rosmarinic acid, which acts as an anti-inflammatory within the body.
• Sage is a powerful antioxidant, protecting cells from being damaged by oxidation and forming cancerous cells.
• Prepare a little sage tea and use it to gargle with in order to relieve a sore throat and any mouth infections.
• Sage may help people with diabetes.
• Women suffering from excessive sweating due to the menopause should try drinking sage tea several times a day.
• Sage can help to regulate menstruation and is good for all female gynecological problems.
• Clary sage is said to ease anxiety and relieve stress and depression.
• Sage is said to help with allergies.
• Sage is also a digestive and can aid digestion, particularly the digestion of rich, fatty foods.
• Sage helps to ease colds, coughs and excess mucous.
• Used as a mouth wash it will reduce bad breath.
• Sage has antiseptic properties, which can treat cuts and sores if prepared as a wash.
• If used as a hair rinse, it has been said that sage will reduce hair loss and darken the color.

6. Rosemary is a perennial plant that forms a rather big shrub that sprouts beautiful blue flowers. This plant is valuable in the garden for its ability to attract bees, thus keeping them away from other plants. Keep in mind though that rosemary is easily affected by frost.

Rosemary is one of those wonderful herbs that makes a beautiful ornamental plant as well as a welcome culinary seasoning. Its Latin name, Rosmarinus officinalis, means “dew of the sea” and rosemary is most closely associated with the cooking of the Mediterranean area. However you don’t need perfect sunshine, sea mist or even a never ending summer to successfully grow rosemary. In fact, more rosemary plants suffer from too much attention than from too little.

Starting a Rosemary Plant

You will make things far easier on yourself if you start with a nursery grown plant. Rosemary can take some time to fill in as a plant, so expect to pay more for a mature plant than for a small rosemary start.

Rosemary is usually propagated by cuttings. Seeds can be difficult to germinate and often don’t grow true to their parent. It’s much faster to start with a cutting and you will be sure of what type of plant you will get. It’s possible to root rosemary in a glass of water, but a bit more effort will give more dependable results.

1. Snip about a 2 inch cutting from the soft, new growth of an established plant.
2. Remove the leaves from the bottom inch and dip that tip into a rooting hormone. Rooting hormones can be found in any garden center.
3. Carefully place the dipped end into a container of dampened, sterile seed starting mix. Choose a mix that says it is well draining, like something containing peat moss and vermiculite or perlite.
4. Place the container in a warm spot with indirect sunlight.
5. Mist the cuttings daily and make sure the soil does not dry out.
6. In about 2-3 weeks, test for root growth by very gently tugging on the cuttings.
7. Once your cuttings have roots, transplant into individual pots about 3-4 inches in diameter.
8. Pinch off the very top of the cutting to encourage it to develop branches.
9. Begin caring for your cutting as a rosemary plant.

Growing and Caring for Rosemary Plants

The three fundamentals for successfully growing rosemary are: Sun, Good Drainage and Good Air Circulation.

If you live in a frost free area, you can grow rosemary in the ground year round. Provide a sandy, well draining soil and 6-8 hours of full sunlight.

Rosemary is not a heavy feeder, but fertilizing in spring with a fish/kelp emulsion will get it off to a good start for the season. Periodic foliar sprays with the emulsion will keep it looking great.

Bringing Rosemary Indoors

Where the winter temperatures dip below 30 degrees F., rosemary plants will have to spend the winter indoors. In this case, it’s easier to grow your rosemary in a container all year. Since rosemary likes it on the dry side, terra cotta pots are an especially good choice. Just be sure it doesn’t bake and completely dry out while outdoors during the summer.

Bring the potted rosemary inside once the temperature inches into the 30s. It can be a little trickier to keep rosemary happy inside. Your rosemary plant will still require 6-8 hours of full sun, so artificial lights may be necessary. Heat is not as crucial as sunlight.

Pest and Problems of Rosemary Plants

The biggest problem with growing rosemary indoors is its tendency to get powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a white, powdery fungus that can develop if the surrounding air is humid and there is not enough air movement.

Powdery mildew won’t kill your rosemary, but it will weaken the plant. Keep the humidity low by allowing the soil to dry somewhat between watering’s, keeping the plant in sunlight and, if necessary, running a fan for a few hours a day to create a breeze.

Also be on the lookout for aphids and spider mites. These pests seem to live on houseplants for the winter. Catching them before a total infestation will make them easier to control. Repeated spraying with insecticidal soap, per package directions, should take care of the problem.

Maintaining a Potted Rosemary

Move your potted rosemary back outdoors once all danger of frost has past.

As with most potted plants, the soil in your rosemary pot will degenerate through watering and root growth. Repot at least once a year. Spring is a good time to repot your rosemary, but it should be fine no matter what time of year you get to it.

When the rosemary plant puts out considerable growth or looks like it just can’t get enough water, it has outgrown its pot and needs to be transplanted into a larger one. If you want to maintain the size of your rosemary plant, root prune it by slicing off a couple of inches of the roots from the bottom and sides of the root ball and replanting in the same pot. Be sure to trim some of the top at the same time, to lessen the work load of the roots and the stress placed upon the trimmed plant. Then allow your repotted plant some time to regroup. It should reward you with many more seasons of snippings.

Using Rosemary

Rosemary is a triple threat herb. Both the leaves and the flowers are edible. Simply snip off pieces of the stem as you need it.

Rosemary has a long history of medicinal use; in centuries past, Rosemary was burned to clear the air of infectious disease during the various plagues of Europe. Rosemary has also been burned for purification in religious ceremonies; the ancient Egyptians used Rosemary in making incense for the purpose of cleansing and healing. Both the Greeks and the Romans regarded Rosemary as a sacred herb and decorated statues with wreaths of Rosemary.

Ancient Healing Uses of Rosemary

Rosemary is said to stimulate the memory; both Greek and Roman students wore garlands of Rosemary to further learning in their studies. Rosemary also has a strong association with marriage and it was traditional for brides to carry sprigs of Rosemary in wedding bouquets; this was originally for its aromatic properties. Today, Rosemary is also associated with death; some European countries carry Rosemary at funerals and throw the herb into the grave.

Medicinal Properties of Rosemary

Rosemary is distilled into a valuable essential oil from the steam distillation of the flowers; Rosemary has healing properties of being pain relieving, restorative, stimulating, anti-bacterial, decongestant, diuretic and anti-fungal. Rosemary is used in the treatment of muscular pain, rheumatism, circulation problems, mental fatigue, nervous exhaustion, cellulite, arthritis, colds, bronchitis, fluid retention, sinusitis and is suitable for dry, mature skin and acne.

Rosemary is said to stimulate the memory and may be useful in restoring memory loss; historically, both William Shakespeare (1564 – 1616) and the 17th century herbalist, John Gerard, mentioned the use of Rosemary as an aid for memory. Rosemary is also reputed to increase hair growth by stimulating the oily secretions of the hair follicles.

Other Uses of the Herb Rosemary

A tea can be made from Rosemary by using the fresh flowering tips; it can be drunk or used as a gargle for throat and mouth infections. Rosemary tea is useful in treating the nerves and in circulation problems.

7. Fennel is used when making Italian sausages that adds a distinctive exciting flavor to the palette. This perennial plant must be divided and replanted every 2-3 years because once the fennel plant has reached maturity there is a noticeable loss of flavor.

Also called Florence Fennel or Finuccio, it is easy to grow and very hardy, lasting well after the first frost. With bright green, fern-like leaves and aromatic yellow flowers, this plant will grow three to four feet tall. Plant it in the back of the herb garden or in your vegetable garden.

Foliage and seeds have an anise-like flavor.

Propagation:

Fennel are grown from seed. Directly sow seeds into your garden as early in the season as the ground can be worked. Sow seeds early in the season and cover with 1/4″ of soil. Space seedlings or thin plants to 10-12″ apart, in rows 18-24 inches apart.

Start a new planting in mid summer to harvest in the fall.

How to Grow Fennel:

Fennel is easy to grow. They prefer full sun and a well drained soil. They will do best in rich soils.

Water them during dry periods, once or twice per week. Add a general purpose fertilizer once or twice a season.

Harvest leaves as at any time. Harvest flower heads after seeds have formed and the flower head has died. Extract seeds and dry them in a cool, dry location.

Harvest bulbs when they reach tennis ball size or bigger. Pull every other one out as needed to allow those remaining to grow even bigger.

Do not pull these plants up in advance of the first frost. They are very hardy and should continue to thrive and grow, even after a number of hard frosts.

Main Cooking Uses:

Having an Anise like taste, the bulbs and stalks are eaten raw like celery. They are also cooked in a variety of Italian and other ethnic foods.

The leaves are used in sauces, soups, and condiments.

The oil is used to flavor liqueurs, candy, fish and medicine. Oil of Fennel is used in soaps too.

Habitat: Fennel is indigenous to southern Europe and the Mediterranean region. It was spread throughout Europe by Imperial Rome and eventually found its way to India, where it is now cultivated extensively. It was taken to the US by the colonists and has been a popular plant there ever since. It is also grown widely today in China, Egypt, Australia and South America.

Fennel was well known to the Ancient Greeks and was revered by Pliny, who believed strongly in its medicinal properties and used it in as many as 22 remedies.

It was taken by the Romans to all of Italy and France, where it became popular as a galactogogue, a substance which increases a mother’s milk supply. Fennel’s potential to aid in breastfeeding is due to its content of flavonoids and coumarins, which are groups of phytoestrogens, plant compounds which exert a balancing effect on female hormone levels. This action to benefit female hormonal balance has also made fennel a popular choice for breast enhancement formulatons, and in European herbal tradition even taking fennel alone can encourage breast development.

In any list of herbs for increasing a mother’s milk or for promoting breast growth, it is likely that fennel will feature strongly.

Like other plants containing phytoestrogens, fennel has become known as a treatment for any conditions related to hormonal imbalance, such as PMS and other menstrual irregularities and the symtoms of the menopause.

Its other popular application is for its digestive and carminative properties for which it enjoys an unparalled reputation, being renowned since earliest times for relieving indigestion and intestinal gas and acting effectively in cases of colic.

It aids digestion by stimulating the production of gastric juices, is said today to provide relief from the symptoms of IBS, and more than any other herb is an excellent tonic for the stomach and the intestines.

• Fennel is also anti-spasmodic in nature and affects the nervous system and nerve function due to its ability to prevent or relieve spasms of muscles;
• it’s hepatic and affects the liver and the body’s detoxification systems due to its ability to tone, strengthen, detoxify and heal the liver;
• it’s anti-inflammatory and affects immune system and reactivity due to its ability to counteract inflammation;
• it’s diuretic and detoxifies the organism by stimulating the production of urine and the elimination of toxins through the urine;
• it’s choleretic and furthers its reputation as a digestive aid by increasing the liver’s production of bile;
• it’s anti-microbial and has actions against a range of bacteria as well as various fungi and yeasts;
• and it’s proven useful as a pleasant smelling and tasting herb, as this has led to it being much valued by herbalists as a way of improving the taste of preparations containing other less-agreeable herbs.
• Traditional Chinese medicine includes the use of fennel for gastroenteritis, hernia, abdominal pain, for a calming effect on bronchitis and coughs, and to open nasal passages and to resolve phlegm.
• The infusion may be used as an eye wash or compress to treat conjunctivitis and blepharitis, and oil of fennel can be used externally to ease muscular and rheumatic pains.

With these herbs growing in your Italian herb garden you’ll be able to use fresh basil when preparing a tomato based Italian meal or oregano with fried foods and grilled meats. Sage has a peppery flavor that is magnificent with meat dishes, Italian salads and dressings. It will also be a welcomed addition to stuffing for poultry, pork, lamb or seafood.

Of course there are many other herbs that can be added to the garden that are used for Italian dishes but these 7 herbs described above is a great start and will be sufficient for a large variety of recipes. Of course, you can balance them to your particular taste and needs. Be sure to consider the growing needs of each herb you plant.

How to Square Foot Garden

square foot garden

It’s easy to get started with your own square foot garden at home. As easy as 1, 2, 3 and you’ll be harvesting in no time! Requiring no tools, less work and no weeding, square foot gardening has become one of the most efficient and popular ways to grow large crops of fresh produce without wasting valuable resources or space.

1st: Pick the Location

• Pick an area that gets 6-8 hours of sunshine daily.
• Stay clear of trees and shrubs where roots and shade may interfere.
• Have it close to the house for convenience.
• Existing soil is not really important, since you won’t be using it.
• Area should not puddle after a heavy rain.

2nd: Follow the Ten Basics

1. LAYOUT – Arrange your garden in squares, not rows. Lay it out in 4′x4′ planting areas.
2. BOXES – Build boxes to hold a new soil mix above ground.
3. AISLES – Space boxes 3′ apart to form walking aisles.
4. SOIL – Fill boxes with Mel’s special soil mix: 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite.
5. GRID – Make a permanent square foot grid for the top of each box. A MUST!
6. CARE – NEVER WALK ON YOUR GROWING SOIL. Tend your garden from the aisles.
7. SELECT – Plant a different flower, vegetable, or herb crop in each square foot, using 1, 4, 9, or 16 plants per square foot.
8. PLANT – Conserve seeds. Plant only a pinch (2 or 3 seeds) per hole. Place transplants in a slight saucer-shaped depression.
9. WATER – Water by hand from a bucket of sun-warmed water.
10. HARVEST – When you finish harvesting a square foot, add compost and replant it with a new and different crop.

• LAYOUT:

Always think in squares: lay out 4 foot by 4 foot planting areas with wide walkways between them.

• BOXES:

Build garden box frames no wider than 4 feet, and 6 to 8 inches deep. The length is not as important, but a recommended size for your first time is one frame 4 foot by 4 foot. You can, of course, go smaller. A 2 foot by 2 foot works great on patios and 3 foot by 3 foot box is ideal for kids. Frames can be made from almost any material except treated wood, which has toxic chemicals that might leach into the soil. 1 by 6 or 2 by 6 lumber is ideal, and comes in 8-foot lengths. Most lumber yards will cut it in half at little or no cost. Exact dimensions are not critical. Deck screws work best to fasten the boards together. Rotate or alternate corners to end up with a square inside.

• AISLES:

If you plan to have more than one garden box, separate them by 2 or 3 feet to form walkways.

• SOIL:

Fill frame with a mixture of 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite (no dirt needed). A blended compost made from many ingredients provides all the nutrients the plants require (no chemical fertilizers needed). Peat moss and vermiculite help hold moisture and keep the soil loose. It’s best to make your own compost from many ingredients but if you have to buy it, make sure it is truly compost.

Some stores sell mulch or humus and other ground covers but call it compost. Most commercial compost is made from one or two ingredients so to be safe, don’t buy all of one kind but one of each kind until you have enough for your garden.

It’s really best to make your own compost, then you know what goes in it. When buying vermiculite, be sure to get the coarse grade, and get the more economical 4 cubic foot size bags. If placing frames over grass you can dig out the grass or cover it with cardboard or landscape cloth to discourage grass and weeds from coming up through your new garden soil.

• GRID:

On top of each frame place a permanent grid that divides the box into one foot squares. The grid is the unique feature that makes the whole system work so well.

To show you why the grid is so important, do this little demonstration: Look at your 4 foot by 4 foot box with the grid on and imagine up to 16 different crops. What you see before you is a neat and attractive, well organized garden, that will be easy to manage.

Now remove the grid. Could you organize and manage this space without dividing it up into squares? Besides, without the grid you will be tempted to plant in rows, which is a poor use of space. Grids can be made from nearly any material; wood, plastic strips, old venetian blinds, etc.

Use screws or rivets to attach them where they cross. On a 4 foot by 4 foot frame, the grid divides the frame into 16 easy-to-manage spaces, for up to 16 different crops. Leave the grid in place all season. The grid can be cut long enough to fit across the top of the box or cut shorter to lay on the soil inside the box.

• CARE:

Since you will NEVER walk on or depress the growing soil, don’t make the frames any wider than 4 feet (2 feet, if only one side is accessible). Any wider makes it too difficult to reach in to tend the plants.

• SELECT:

Depending on the mature size of the plant, grow 1, 4, 9, or 16 equally spaced plants per square foot. If the seed packet recommends plant spacing be 12 inches apart, plant one plant per square foot. If 6 inch spacing; 4 per square foot. If 4 inch spacing; 9 per square foot. If 3 inch spacing; 16 per square foot.

Basically, an extra-large plant is 1 per square, large is 4 per square, medium is 9 per square and small is 16 per square.

• PLANT:

Plant one or two seeds in each spot by making a shallow hole with your finger. Cover, but do not pack the soil. Thinning is all but eliminated. Seeds are not wasted. Extra seeds can be stored cool and dry in your refrigerator. Don’t over-plant. Plant only as much of any one crop as you will use. This 4 foot by 4 foot box will grow more than a conventional garden that is 8 foot by 10 foot.

Since most people are not comfortable planting just one seed, I suggest they plant a pinch of seeds in each hole.  How many in a pinch?  It usually depends on the size of the seed.

For tiny seeds, plant 2 to 4; for large seeds only 2 are needed.  If only one sprouts, you are all set.  If two or more sprout take a pair of scissors and cut off the weakest looking sprout or sprouts.  Don’t fall to the temptation of transplanting it because while you are digging it up, you will disturb the plant you are trying to save in that space.  So just be bold and snip off the extra sprout or sprouts, leaving just the one you want to remain.

WATER:

Water only as much as each plant needs. Water often, especially at first, and on very hot dry days, If possible, water by hand (uses a lot less water ) with a cup from a sun-warmed bucket of water. Warm water helps the soil warm up in early and late season.

• HARVEST:

Harvest continually and when a crop in one square is gone, add some new compost and plant a new different crop in that square.

Square foot gardening is a simple system that adapts to all levels of experience, physical ability, and geographical location.  Grow all you want and need in only 20% of the space of a conventional row garden.
Save time, water, work and money!

·  Out Produces Every Other Method Known

• Requires very little space; 80% less than conventional gardening.
• Can be done in as little as 4 feet by 4 feet, — or as large as you want.
  Your existing (bad) soil doesn’t matter because we don’t use it. Start
  with an ideal soil mix that is weed-free and requires no tilling.
• Uses much less water; only about 20% compared to conventional gardening.
• No fertilizers or pesticides to handle — it’s all natural
• The planting method requires no thinning and very few seeds.
• All the hard work has been removed in the Square Foot method – only
  the enjoyable part remains.
• Can be started in any season.
• Produces 5 times the harvest of a conventional garden.
• Can be done by those with physical or mental limitations. If getting
  down is a problem, raise the boxes to a wheelchair level.
• Makes a great family project, all ages can participate -
  kids love to garden.
• No Weeding! No Thinning! No Heavy Digging

GRID IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT

One material that some people use is a white plastic clothesline and to install it they insert small screw eyes into their wood frame every 12″. They then tie a knot in the cord and run it from one side to the other over to the next screw eye.  Then over to the third screw eye and back again, tying a knot at the final screw eye. To make everything real tight you tie the knot before you insert the last screw eye, measuring just the right distance to keep the cord very tight. Then you do the same thing in the other direction. I hope all that makes sense. It’s a lot easier to do than it is to explain.

VENETIAN BLIND GRID

Another very visible grid is to use Venetian blind slats. You can usually buy a window blind at thrift shops for a dollar, as long as they’re over 4′ long, you’re in business. If you cut them to 4′, assuming that’s what your box frame measures, you can then make a mark every 12″ on the slats and this is where they cross over and intersect. At that point you can drill a little hole and insert a screw or bolt. If you don’t have a drill, some people just punch a hole with a hammer and a sharp nail.

WOOD LATH ALSO GOOD

Other good materials are wood slats from any lumber supply. Very cheap, yet very visible and attractive.

We recommend a prominent, visible grid that will set your garden apart from all others.  A grid helps organize your garden into squares for easy planting.  Use a solid plastic or wood grid.  We used to recommend string, but found that it gets dirty, broken and loose and just doesn’t work as well as something that is more solid.  That’s why we have decided to offer vinyl grids on our website.  It is also a good idea to attach the grid to the box to hold it in place.  Drill a hole in the end of the grid and then screw it into place.  The grid can then be easily removed and stored away for winter.  Nails are not good to use in attaching the grid, especially if they stick up as it is in a position to cause a cut right under the wrist.  If your garden doesn’t have a grid, it isn’t a true Square Foot Garden.

Some people go to the thrift store and get old Venetian blinds to use as grids.  Some of these are thin enough that holes can be punched with a paper punch.  Then, gold paper fasteners (brads) can be used to hold the grids together.

Lasagna Gardening

No-Till, No-Dig Gardening

Lasagna gardening is a no-dig, no-till organic gardening method that results in rich, fluffy soil with very little work from the gardener. The name “lasagna gardening” has nothing to do with what you’ll be growing in this garden. It refers to the method of building the garden, which is, essentially, adding layers of organic materials that will “cook down” over time, resulting in rich, fluffy soil that will help your plants thrive. Also known as “sheet composting,” lasagna gardening is great for the environment, because you’re using your yard and kitchen waste and essentially composting it in place to make a new garden.

No Digging Required

One of the best things about lasagna gardening is how easy it is. You don’t have to remove existing sod and weeds. You don’t have to double dig. In fact, you don’t have to work the soil at all.

The first layer of your lasagna garden consists of either brown corrugated cardboard or three layers of newspaper laid directly on top of the grass or weeds in the area you’ve selected for your garden.

Wet this layer down to keep everything in place and start the decomposition process. The grass or weeds will break down fairly quickly because they will be smothered by the newspaper or cardboard, as well as by the materials you’re going to layer on top of them.

This layer also provides a dark, moist area to attract earthworms that will loosen up the soil as they tunnel through it.

Ingredients for a Lasagna Garden

Anything you’d put in a compost pile, you can put into a lasagna garden. The materials you put into the garden will break down, providing nutrient-rich, crumbly soil in which to plant. The following materials are all perfect for lasagna gardens:

• Grass Clippings
• Leaves
• Fruit and Vegetable Scraps
• Coffee Grounds
• Tea leaves and tea bags
• Weeds (if they haven’t gone to seed)
• Manure
• Compost
• Seaweed
• Shredded newspaper or junk mail
• Pine needles
• Spent blooms, trimmings from the garden
• Peat moss

Just as with an edible lasagna, there is some importance to the methods you use to build your lasagna garden.

You’ll want to alternate layers of “browns” such as fall leaves, shredded newspaper, peat, and pine needles with layers of “greens” such as vegetable scraps, garden trimmings, and grass clippings.

In general, you want your “brown” layers to be about twice as deep as your “green” layers, but there’s no need to get finicky about this. Just layer browns and greens, and a lasagna garden will result.

What you want at the end of your layering process is a two-foot tall layered bed. You’ll be amazed at how much this will shrink down in a few short weeks.

When to Make a Lasagna Garden

You can make a lasagna garden at any time of year. Fall is an optimum time for many gardeners because of the amount of organic materials you can get for free thanks to fallen leaves and general yard waste from cleaning up the rest of the yard and garden. You can let the lasagna garden sit and break down all winter. By spring, it will be ready to plant in with a minimum of effort. Also, fall rains and winter snow will keep the materials in your lasagna garden moist, which will help them break down faster.

If you choose to make a lasagna garden in spring or summer, you will need to consider adding more “soil-like” amendments to the bed, such as peat or topsoil, so that you can plant in the garden right away. If you make the bed in spring, layer as many greens and browns as you can, with layers of finished compost, peat, or topsoil interspersed in them. Finish off the entire bed with three or four inches of finished compost or topsoil, and plant. The bed will settle some over the season as the layers underneath decompose.

Planting and Maintaining a Lasagna Garden

When it’s time to plant, just dig down into the bed as you would with any other garden. If you used newspaper as your bottom layer, the shovel will most likely go right through, exposing nice, loose soil underneath. If you used cardboard, you may have to cut a hole in it at each spot where you want to plant something.

To maintain the garden, simply add mulch to the top of the bed in the form of straw, grass clippings, bark mulch, or chopped leaves. Once it’s established, you will care for a lasagna garden just as you would any other: weed and water when necessary, and plant to your heart’s content.

Advantages of A Lasagna Garden

While you will be maintaining a lasagna garden the same way you would care for any other garden, you will find that caring for a lasagna garden is less work-intensive. You can expect:

• Few weeds, thanks to the newspaper suppressing them from below and the mulch covering the soil from above.
• Better water retention, due to the fact that compost (which is what you made by layering all of those materials) holds water better than regular garden soil, especially if your native soil is sandy or deficient in organic matter.
• Less need for fertilizer, because you planted your garden in almost pure compost, which is very nutrient-rich.
• Soil that is easy to work: crumbly, loose, and fluffy.

Lasagna gardening is fun, easy, and allows you to make new gardens at a much faster rate than the old double-digging method.

There’s no hard and fast rules about what to use for your layers, just so long as it’s organic and doesn’t contain any protein (fat, meat, or bone).  Before I go any further, let me just say that the basics of making garden lasagnas are simple:

• Don’t remove the sod or do any extra work, like removing weeds or rocks.
• Mark the area for your garden using a water hose or a long rope to get the desired shape.
• Cover the area you’ve marked with wet newspapers, overlapping the edges (5 or more sheets per layer).
• Cover the paper with one to two inches of peat moss or other organic material.
• Layer several inches of organic material on top of the peat moss.
• Continue to alternate layers of peat moss and organic material, until desired thickness is reached.
• Water until the garden is the consistency of a damp sponge.

There’s no such thing as work-free gardening, but the lasagna method is close. Once you train yourself to think layering, and learn to stockpile your ingredients, you will work less each year. 

Vertical Gardening

Home gardeners sometimes neglect to make use of the space created by vertical areas in their yards.  Vertical gardening is ideal for gardening in the urban city areas, apartments with balcony, and they are easily accessible for gardeners with disability or elderly gardeners for ease of enjoying.

Do you live in the city? Are you confined to an apartment dwelling with little space for gardening? Do you want to grow a vegetable garden, but feel you don’t have the room? If so, then I have news for you. While limited spaces of a city life can be frustrating for the gardener, growing a vegetable garden is anything but impossible. In fact, with a little planning and imagination, vegetable gardens can be grown anywhere, regardless of space.

Consider growing a vertical vegetable garden. A vertical vegetable garden is easy to create. You can create one using shelves, hanging baskets, or trellises.

• Vertical gardening can provide privacy and a disguise from unattractive views.
• Vertical gardening provides excellent air circulation for the plants.
• Certain pests are not vertical crawlers and you may be able to prevent some pests from being a problem.
• You can build a vertical garden space as a shaded area.
• Many plants can be trained to climb vertical structures.
• You can grow more plants with little space. Many plants that require cooler temps and some shade, can be planted underneath the arch of the vining plants.
• Plants can be within reach for an individual with limitations who is unable to garden in a traditional way.

If you have a view you’d like to block or an unattractive structure you’d like to cover, you can use vines and other plants to help disguise these unappealing landscape features. If you grow plants over walls, fences, and trellises, vertical gardening can also add more privacy to your home.

The first step is to determine what the conditions are like in the area you wish to place the vegetable garden, such as on the balcony. The amount of sunlight will be the greatest factor in determining which plants will thrive in your urban environment.

For instance, if you live in an area surrounded by other buildings, balcony or patio may be shaded most of the time; therefore, you should choose your plants accordingly. Leafy vegetables like lettuce, cabbage, and greens do well with limited sunlight, making good choices for shady areas.

If you are blessed with an abundance of sunshine, your selection of plants will be greater, as vegetables thrive best in full sun. Choices here can include tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, beans, carrots, and radishes. Even vine crops, such as squash, pumpkins, and cucumbers can be grown as long as the container is deep enough to accommodate them and proper staking is available.

Fill containers with peat moss and a suitable potting mix amended with compost or manure.
Almost any vegetable that can be grown in a plot garden will also work well as a container-grown plant. Nearly any type of container can be used for growing vegetable plants. Old washtubs, wooden crates, gallon-sized coffee cans, and even five-gallon buckets can be implemented for growing crops as long as they provide adequate drainage.

Since most vegetables can be easily grown in containers, shelves offer the benefit of growing numerous types of vegetables on each shelf as high up as you can reach or space allows. You can position the vertical vegetable garden so that all of the plants receive adequate amounts of sunlight at the same time.

In many cases, vertical gardening will allow you to work standing up, so you can save your back a lot of wear and tear. Hanging baskets and grow bags are a great way to grow both flowers and vegetables in a small vertical space. These items are very popular with older gardeners who don’t want to stoop to work on their plants.

Although any type of shelving may be used, the best type is the kind with slats. This will allow better air circulation and during watering intervals, the excess water on the top shelves will trickle down to the bottom ones. If shelves are not for you, containers can also be situated on tiers, forming a vertical appearance as well. Alternatively, vegetables can also be grown in hanging baskets or along trellises.

Additionally, growing plants in this manner means that they generally have fewer problems with pests and diseases, as many pests can’t even reach your plants! Additionally, keeping your tomatoes off the ground with will keep them free of soil-borne diseases.

Vines are an obvious choice for growing on fences, garden arbors, and trellises. Vines can be attractive for both their foliage and their flowers. Wisteria and Trumpet Creeper are popular vines that have beautiful flowers and fill out with lush, green leaves. Vines are also a perfect pick if you want to cover unattractive features in your landscaping, such as utility boxes or old garden sheds. Both Wisteria and Trumpet Creeper are also great at attracting bees and hummingbirds, which will benefit your garden.

Note that vines have different ways of growing on vertical surfaces. Some vines, such as grapes, have small, tender structures that wind their way around trellises, garden arbors, fences etc. Ivy has tiny root-like structures that attach to a range of surfaces. Other vines have structures that are like small suckers that clamp on to vertical surfaces.

You can choose either perennial or annual vines for your landscaping. Annuals such as nasturtium, morning glories, and sweet peas will grow quickly in a single growing season and then die off. This is a good option if you want quick growth and you don’t want a leafless set of branches in your landscaping during the winter.

Popular perennial vines include ivy, clematis, bougainvillea, climbing roses, jasmine, and honeysuckle. Perennial vines will twine, grasp, or lean, depending on the species you pick. Perennial vines can also be evergreen or deciduous. Deciduous vines will loose their leaves in the winter and can often create interest with their twisting, sculptural shapes. Wisteria is a good example. Evergreen vines, such as English ivy, will help keep your landscape green all year round.

You can easily grow pole beans and sweet peas around railings, fences, trellises, old ladders, etc. Beans grow as both bushes or as vertically climbing plants. Pole beans can climb quite tall and in some cases may need a large structure to grow on.

Tomatoes are ideal to grow vertically as they are plants that get rather unwieldy if left to grow on the ground. Thus, they grow best when trained to grow in a tomato cage, or on some sort of support structure. When you grow tomatoes vertically, they take up less space and are less susceptible to soil-borne diseases. Remember, tomatoes also glow great in hanging baskets.

Some varieties of cucumbers work well as vertical plants. Cucumbers that have a tendency to climb and grow as vines work well on trellises or other gardening structures.

Corn is a vegetable that needs abundant vertical space to grow well. Moreover, you can actually use your stalks of corn to grow other vertically oriented vegetables, especially beans. Beans also fix nitrogen in the soil, so if you plant them along with your corn, all the plants in your garden will benefit. If you don’t want to grow corn, try sunflowers instead.

There are a number of fruits that you can grow in your vertical garden as well. Small melons and passion fruit are examples of fruits you can grow on vertical structures such as trellises. Of course, grape vines make a great plant to grow vertically on garden arbors, fences, or trellises.

Hanging baskets can be placed on the balcony or on suitable hangers. Numerous types of vegetables can be grown in hanging baskets, especially those with trailing characteristics.

What vegetables can be grown upside down

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are one of the best known upside down vegetables. While any size tomatoes can be grown upside down, but cherry tomatoes tend to be easier to manage when growing vegetables upside down.

Cucumbers

In a hanging vegetable garden, any vining vegetable can be grown and cucumbers are often a popular choice.

You can grow slicing or pickling cucumbers as upside down vegetables, but pickling cucumbers will be the easier of the two choices. Avoid using bush cucumbers as they will have a hard time growing using this method.

Eggplants

In your upside down hanging vegetable garden, you should consider growing eggplants. Opt for smaller fruit varieties such as those from the egg shaped varieties, miniature varieties and even some of the slender Asian varieties.

Beans

Beans do very well in hanging vegetable garden upside down. Both pole and bush beans can be grown upside down.

Peppers

Peppers and tomatoes are closely related so it is no surprise that, just like tomatoes, peppers are excellent upside down vegetables. Any variety of pepper, bell peppers, hot peppers, any variety of peppers, can be grown inverted.

Top of your upside down garden

The tops of your upside down gardening planters can also hold a few vegetables. Some good options for this area includes:

• Lettuce
• Radishes
• Cress
• Oregano
• Parsley

Growing vegetables upside down can be a good solution to small areas. Now that you know what vegetables can be grown upside down, you can start an upside down garden and enjoy those tasty home grown vegetables.

Peppers and cherry tomatoes not only look good in hanging baskets, as do trailing plants such as the sweet potato vine, but they also thrive nicely in them. Keep them watered daily, however, since hanging baskets are more prone to drying out, especially during hot spells.

Upside Down Pop Bottle Planter

Pop bottle planter

To start you will need:

• A young leafy plant, such a Tomato, Green Bean, Cucumber or your favorite Herb
• A Two Liter Green Soda Bottle
• A Hole Punch
• A Roll of Duct Tape
• Scissors and/or a sharp Knife
• Enough soil to fill your bottle at least 3/4 full
• A little Garden Mulch or Bark

• Something sturdy to hang your planter with, such as twine, leather string, a cut coat hanger, etc.
• A weather resistant hook to hang your planter on.

1. Cut the bottom portion off of the bottle.
2. Wrap a length of Duct Tape around the cut end with half of the tape above the cut.
3. This will add stability to your planter and prevent the plastic from stretching from the weight of the soil after it has been hung up.
4. Cut a few slits in the portion of tape above the bottle and fold it to the inside of the bottle.
5. Punch four holes in your bottle as close to the center of the duct tape as possible
6. Insert your plant into the bottle and gently work the plant through the bottle opening.
7. Press the dirt ball up as far as it will go.
8. Very gently untangle your plant and work it the rest of the way through the bottle opening.
9. Spread the root ball out inside the bottle to prevent your plant from becoming root bound.
10. Fill the bottle with soil to within 2 – 3 inches of the top.
11. Add whatever you choose to use for hanging your planter through the holes made in the Duct Tape.
12. Find a nice sunny spot to hang your planter and add water to soak the soil until it drips through the opening.
13. Cover the opening with some layers of cheesecloth, garden bark or mulch to help keep the soil moist and prevent rapid drying out of the soil.

Growing Tomatoes Upside-Down

upside down bucket tomato

Benefits to growing tomatoes in buckets. First, the air can circulate better so the plants have almost no disease problems. Second, the fruit doesn’t rot as quickly as that on the ground. And finally, some critters that eat tomatoes have trouble getting to the ripening fruit.

To make the upside-down containers, use 5-gallon buckets with tight-fitting lids.
Scrub each bucket out with soapy water and make sure the handle is attached securely.

Cut a 2-inch or larger diameter hole in the center of the lid and one in the bottom of the bucket. To make the holes, use a drill with a hole saw bit (an attachment for cutting a door to install the doorknob).

With the bucket standing upright and the lid off, cover the hole in the bottom with a coffee filter or scrap of fabric. That way the soil won’t fall out when you turn the bucket over. Fills the bucket full of a lightweight potting mix, shaking it to settle the soil.

Before you put the lid back on, lay another coffee filter over the soil where the hole will be.

Next, put the lid on and turn the bucket upside down.
Cuts a slit through the filter in the hole and plant a tomato seedling. To give the tomato a fast start, strips off the lower leaves and plant the seedling deeply so roots can form along the stem. Place the planted bucket in a sunny location and keep it well-watered for the next few weeks.

When the plant is about a foot tall, it’s ready to hang it up. The bucket needs a solid support to hold the weight. A clothesline pole is ideal. If you hang the bucket from a building, make sure it won’t bang into a window or the siding on a windy day.

This part is easier with two people — one to lift and hold the bucket and one to fasten the chain. Drape a chain over the clothesline post while a friend lifts the bucket. Pull the chain through the handle of the bucket and fastens the ends together. You can buy chain loops made specifically for fastening or use a piece of heavy wire and twist it to hold the chain together. Either way, this will enable you to be able to raise and lower the height of the buckets to make the harvesting of your tomatoes easier on your back.

Pollinate your maters!

Tomatoes require a special kind of pollination to achieve proper fruit set. This form of pollination is known as ‘buzz pollination” or “vibration pollination”.

It is accomplished by bumble bees that grip the flower with their legs and vibrate their flight muscles. Honeybees are incapable of doing this. In small gardens, bumblebee populations can be insufficient to properly pollinate tomatoes and related plants.

Here is how to pollinate your plants to produce larger fruit.

You will need an electric toothbrush with soft bristles.

To pollinate the flower, turn on the toothbrush and gently and briefly touch it to the petals, the stem of the flower, or the flower cluster just for a few seconds. Don’t touch it to the face of the flower. That is all there is to it.

Trellis
Trellises can be used for the support of trailing or vine crops. A fence can also serve as a trellis for beans, peas, tomatoes, and vine crops.

Use a stepladder as a makeshift trellis to support vine-growing plants like pumpkins, squash, and cucumbers. The rungs of the ladder can be used to train the vines while placing the vegetables on its steps for further support—this also works well with tomato plants.

Be creative and find something that works for you and your unique situation. Growing a vertical vegetable garden is the perfect way for urban gardeners and others to still enjoy a bountiful harvest of freshly grown vegetables without taking up their already limited space.

Fruit and foliage diseases are often reduced when vegetables are grown vertically. Air circulation is increased so fruit and foliage dry off faster after a rain or irrigation. Fruit does not lie on the soil surface, which reduces some fruit rot problems and damage from some pests that live in the mulch and soil surface.

Trellising Materials
Trellises are the most common way to garden vertically. Livestock panels are a good choice for trellis material. They are very durable, lasting virtually forever, and can be cut into sections with a bolt cutter, making them easier to handle. They store neatly against a fence or behind an outbuilding and are rigid enough to carry a heavy load with very few support posts.

Wire mesh fencing is another good trellis material. Mesh fence wire makes a lightweight trellis but may require wood or metal posts every 6 to 8 feet to provide support. Tomato cages are not just for tomatoes. They make excellent supports for a crop of cucumbers or pole beans, or a Malabar spinach vine. Provide a stake to anchor them or a wind will turn your vertical garden horizontal.

Lattice panels make a very attractive trellis material. They are well suited for decks, balconies or other areas near the home where appearance is more important. The main drawbacks to lattice panels are their higher initial expense, the tendency for the lattice to partially shade vegetables for half of the day when oriented north and south, and the fact that you cannot reach through the trellis to harvest veggies.

I love the appearance and durability of natural plant materials for trellis construction. Saplings and branches from young trees make a superb choice for constructing a long lasting trellis that blends into the garden well.  Bamboo poles are another great trellis material especially when wired into a diagonal crosshatch pattern. However, almost any readily available material can be used.

Some gardeners prefer to use heavy twine to make a temporary trellis. Sections of twine can be dropped from a horizontal overhead support or woven into a diagonal crosshatch pattern, tying them off tightly to nails or boards. At the end of the year, the twine can be discarded along with any intertwined vine growth. If you use natural fiber twine, such as jute, it can be included in the compost pile.

Do not forget those structures you already have in the landscape that may make a good trellis support. Nothing hides a chain link fence better that a crop of pole beans, cucumbers or other vining cucurbits. That balcony railing outside your apartment or townhouse is just yearning for something to grow on it. The porch posts or ornate metalwork eave supports are also a great plant support.

You can also use old mini blinds. Just remove every other slat, attach the mini blind to the bottom of your porch railing. If you have an old crib sitting around collecting dust, take the side rails off and you can use them as a make shift trellis. Old ladders work quite well also.

Where to Place Trellises
Keep in mind that sun exposure is important for good vegetable production. Locate your trellis where the foliage will receive good sunlight, but without shading other areas of the garden. A back fence or the north side of the garden works well.

Remember too that vertical gardening can go up or down. For example, an apartment dweller might grow a crop of sweet potatoes in a large balcony container, allowing the vines to hang down over the ledge in a curtain of attractive foliage. Just make sure the pot is secured by a railing or tied to a post or a strong wind could bring on a disaster. Tomatoes can also be allowed to cascade down from a container.

Some creative gardeners have used a tall stump in the middle of the yard as a support for a large container of cascading veggies or used large hanging baskets to grow vegetables above a turf area or on a sunny porch. Garden centers sell attractive pot hangers from which a terra cotta pot can be hung from a post, wall or fence. It is not difficult to imagine a multi-tiered garden of radishes, kohlrabi, lettuce or other small greens using these hangers.

Some Final Thoughts
When considering crops for vertical gardening, do not neglect the large-fruited squashes and melons. The weight of these fruits can pull the vines off of a trellis or sometimes cause the fruit to break off (this doesn’t happen a lot of the time because the stalks/vines of the plant usually will grow along with the fruit/veggie to enable it to properly support it) but this can be easily remedied by a simple support.

Cut old hosiery into sections about 8 to 12 inches long and tie a knot into one end. When fruits are about the size of a baseball, slip the fruit into a section of hosiery and attach to the trellis about 6 to 8 inches above the fruit. It is a good idea to tie it so that the fruit is lifted a little higher than it was originally hanging since it will drop down much lower as it grows in size and weight.

Sections of mesh bags or burlap can also be used to form “hammocks” for this same purpose. These have the advantage of not sagging as much under the weight of heavy fruit. With a little creativity, you can have a wall of watermelon or cantaloupe alongside a deck, pool or Jacuzzi.

Vertical gardening allows us to get the most out of our gardening space. So take advantage of the space below a vertical trellis. Plant a row of lettuce on the south side of a trellis of climbing cool-season peas. Use the space near the base of a pole bean or cucumber row to grow some bush squash, peppers or Swiss chard.

Give some vertical gardening a try this season. Even gardeners with room to roam will find it worthwhile – saving the ol’ back, reducing diseases and creating some great conversation pieces around your home landscape.

Many materials used for vertical gardening can be used in ground-level gardening or raised beds, such as trellises and stakes. If you are not steady on your feet, be careful about using plant stakes as you may easily trip and fall.

Plants which are grown vertically need more frequent watering, but can be remedied by using mulch at the base of the plant.

• Garden Arbors

Arbors are typically made from vinyl, iron or other metals, or wood. Arbors can even have a small bench or swing built into the structure, making them ideal for relaxing.

The addition of a vine growing up and over your arbor will make it a cool and shady spot. Garden arbors come in a wide variety of styles. You can purchase arbors with flat roofs, arched roofs, or gabled roofs. Some garden arbors even come with gates or planters, making them functional pieces of art.

• Trellises

Trellises are leaning or stand alone structures that will work for a variety of plants. Both flowering vines and some vegetables work well when grown on trellises. Trellises are also useful for creating privacy barriers and “walls” where none exist in your yard.

Old wooden ladders, poles, antique wooden wheelbarrows, and even old cars can be attractive features where you can grow plants vertically. Other simple structures for vertical gardening include pergolas. Additionally, you can use raised beds, planter boxes, and containers for your vertical garden.

• Raised Beds and Planter Boxes

Window boxes are a good option for growing indoors or on your window sill. There are many styles available. They typically are made of wood, plastic, or fired clay.

When using window boxes, you should fill them with a high quality potting soil. This soil is designed for containers and will drain well. You may need to line the window box to keep the soil from leaking out. Just make sure that the liner has a few small holes punched in it to let the water drain.

You may also design a raised bed garden to grow a variety of plants if you don’t have a garden plot. Raised beds work great on patios and decks. A benefit of working with raised beds is that you can personalize the height of the bed. This will allow you to work standing or sitting. You can also make your own soil mixture when setting up your beds.

Planter boxes are similar to raised beds, and are typically small containers that are designed to grow many different kinds of plants.

• Containers

Containers are another great option for growing plants vertically. You can buy containers and hang them from a variety of hooks or poles.

There are also a number of unusual containers specifically designed for growing large quantities of crops in vertical spaces. Vertical grow bags are another option.

Homemade Vertical Grow Bag

You can easily make grow bags by using large plastic trash bags and filling them with some inexpensive soil mix.  You will plant the large single plant of your choice in the opening of the bag, and sit it upright.

If you want a larger crop, use a very big and sturdy trash bag, Place it where it will grow, fill it with soil, lay it on its side, and cut the side open to plant a small garden.

You can also leave the bag upright, poke small holes in the sides, and insert plants, seeds, or cutting in the small holes. This is a very practical and pretty way to mix herbs and vegetables.

Before you plant anything in your grow bag, water the soil. Grow bags are great for patios, apartment balconies, or in yards with poor soil. You can place our grow bag over an old rug or strong cardboard if you think that it may need to be moved later in the season. The soil in the grow bags can be placed back in your yard at the end of the season, or you can add a bit more soil and plant a winter crop.
Traditional containers are available in many styles. You can choose to use wire or wood baskets, plastic pots, clay containers, etc. Wire and wood baskets are also suitable for hanging on stands, arbors, hooks, and many other surfaces.

Wherever you hang them, just make sure you have some way to catch the excess water from the plants so the water doesn’t drip and ruin your favorite table. Also, check the weight of the plant and be sure that the structure you hang your container on can handle the weight. You may also consider the addition of a special polymer to the soil that will help the soil retain water.

If you want to try something unusual, try out this vertical hydroponic garden system. You can grow tomatoes or other veggies without soil in this container. I’ll be covering hydroponic gardening next week.

Location is an important part of vertically gardening. Make sure you place garden arbors and other structures where they won’t shade out other plants. You’ll also want to ensure that the plants you grow on your trellises or garden arbors will get enough sunlight. Orient the structure accordingly. Moreover, if you have seasonal winds, you may want to locate your arbor or trellis in a safe place where your plants are less likely to blow off.

If you have vines growing in your garden, you’ll need to keep the base of the plant mulched with about four inches of organic mulch. This will ensure that your soil retains water during the warmer weeks of the summer. The mulch will also add nutrients to the soil. Some vines and other vertically-growing plants dry out quickly, so make sure and water them frequently.

When you grow plants vertically, you’ll want to keep constant tabs on them so they don’t grow where you don’t want them to go. Some vines can quickly attach themselves to rain gutters and pull them away from the wall if you’re not careful! Also, when planning your vertical garden, make sure you think about access for maintenance. Will you need a ladder to prune your vines, or can you reach them easily?

As your plants grow up your trellis, wall, or garden arbor, you may need to keep them fastened to the structure and train them so they won’t slump off or fall. Some vines will attach more readily to a surface and wind in and out of a trellis or arbor, but others need a helping hand now and then. Twine is a good choice for tying your plants, and won’t damage the stems. You can typically find weatherproof garden twine at your local garden supply store.

Grow a Tea Garden

Easy Tea Herbs:

Pineapple Sage

Flowering Pineapple Sage

This is a lesser-known herb for most people, but herbal tea drinkers will recognize it instantly. It has a soft, sweet pineapple fragrance and taste. A little honey and fresh lime or lemon juice will make it even more tasty, particularly to people who don’t normally drink tea. Pineapple sage is a perennial, but a relatively tender one, so mulch it heavily if you live in an area that is subject to frosts during winter.

Healing:

• digestion
• heartburn
• balance the nervous system
• general tonic

How to grow:

Because it’s a tender perennial, the way you grow pineapple sage depends on your climate. In the South, it is treated as a perennial, in the North as an annual. Either way, it develops into a graceful mound of fragrant foliage, equally at home in a formal herb garden or a casual herbaceous border. An established plant in the South needs a space about 41/2 feet in diameter, preferably at the rear of a border or in the center of an island bed where it will not obstruct the view of foreground plants. When placing pineapple sage among other ornamental flowers, consider the colors of its fall-blooming neighbors; for example, white or lavender asters might be a better choice than vivid magenta ones. If you grow pineapple sage as an annual, think of it as a foliage plant, as it must be brought indoors before it flowers. To facilitate the transition, you can grow it in a large container. This guarantees a satisfactory root system for it to carry on indoors and minimizes the shock of moving it when its season in the garden is over.

Pineapple sage is easily propagated from stem cuttings rooted in potting soil or a mixture of sand and peat moss. Even in fairly mild climates, it’s a good idea to root a few cuttings late in the summer to grow inside until the following spring, just in case. Pinching the tops of newly rooted cuttings reaps dual benefits: it promotes a bushier plant, and you can use the tasty young leaves to flavor a fruit salad or dessert.

After the last spring frost, set new plants out in a protected location for a few days to harden off, then transplant them into the garden. They perform best in full sun and a well-drained soil. Allow adequate space for the plant to expand into. To cover the bare ground while the pineapple sage is still small, surround it with a fast-growing annual herb such as basil, cilantro, or dill. The purple leaves of Dark Opal basil will contrast dramatically with the soft green leaves of the sage. Toward the end of summer, as the sage needs more room, you can remove the annuals. Another alternative is to plant the area at the base of the pineapple sage with low-growing creeping thyme or oregano. In this case, you don’t need to pull out the creepers when the sage grows out over them; they make a fine little mound around the base.

If you live where pineapple sage can remain in the ground all year, be patient for it to emerge in the spring; it tends to sleep in until the soil is warm. When a plant becomes too large for its site, you can divide it in either spring or fall; spring is a safer bet where its hardiness is borderline.

The first hard frost of fall turns the leaves black. Overnight, the raving beauty of your autumn garden is transformed into a frostbitten hag. At your convenience, cut the stems back to the ground, leaving just enough stubble to mark the plant’s location. Several inches of mulch will moderate the fluctuations in soil temperature over the cold months. Gradually pull the mulch back when the weather starts to warm up in the spring.

Uses

Pineapple sage is worth growing simply for its beauty in the garden, but it has additional virtues. Indoors, the scarlet blossoms add their bright color and subtle fragrance to fresh flower arrangements. Cut them freely; buds on the lateral shoots will develop in abundance to produce a steady supply of flowers for your garden. The dried leaves and flowers impart their delicate, fruity bouquet to potpourri—it is hard to use too much. Entire stems can be dried for use in herbal wreaths.

In the kitchen, fruit salads are enhanced by the fruity, piquant flavor of the fresh flowers and leaves. This flavor is very different from that of garden sage; although there is a sagey element, it’s very subtle, and pineapple sage doesn’t substitute for other culinary sages. The flowers add visual sparkle as well. Even without flowers, a fresh leafy stem of pineapple sage is the perfect garnish for tall summer drinks.

Try mixing the minced leaves and flowers in cream cheese for a delightfully fruity spread, or knead a handful or two of chopped leaves into raisin bread dough. Steeping the leaves in hot apple juice and using the juice to make jelly is an easy way to preserve the pineapple sage flavor. The dried leaves can be brewed for a satisfying winter tea; however, the fruity element is lost in drying.

A Sage for All Seasons

Whether grown as an annual, potted plant, or perennial, pineapple sage is an herb worth growing. Visually appealing throughout the summer, it achieves its full glory in the autumn when it blooms. Bruising a leaf to release its unusual perfume as you stroll through the garden is a simple pleasure that should not be missed. Pineapple sage is a must for those who value fragrance in the garden as well as those who strive to capture it indoors.

Peppermint

Flowering Peppermint

Perhaps the best thing about peppermint is that it reminds us so strongly of sweet things without actually containing any sugar! Peppermint is a great herb for an everyday tea. Just submerge ¼ cup of fresh-picked leaves in a cup of boiling water and allow it to steep for 5-10 minutes (cover it while it’s steeping to prevent steam escaping). Peppermint grows like a weed, so you won’t find it difficult to keep a steady supply on hand!

All mints prefer, and thrive, in cool, moist spots in partial shade. In general, mints tolerate a wide range of conditions, and can also be grown in full sun. They are fast growing, extending their reach along surfaces through a network of runners. Due to their speedy growth, one plant of each desired mint, along with a little care, will provide more than enough mint for home use. Some mint species are more invasive than others. Even with the less invasive mints, care should be taken when mixing any mint with any other plants, lest the mint take over. To control mints in an open environment, mints should be planted in deep, bottomless containers sunk in the ground, or planted above ground in tubs and barrels.

Mints can be propagated by seed, but it can be quite tricky. Mint seeds are highly variable, one might not end up with what one pre-supposed was planted; some mint varieties are sterile. It is more effective to take and plant cuttings from the runners of healthy mints. The most common and popular mints for cultivation are peppermint, spearmint, chocolate mint, horehound, catmint and pennyroyal.

The odoriferous members of this family deter white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. To make sure you do not start a new problem by fixing an old one, you can grow mints in containers and place around your garden. Another trick is to remove both ends of a coffee can and plant the mint into the can to restrain the roots and force them to grow down rather than out. Be careful where you plant mint, as it is an incredibly invasive perennial and quite hard to destroy.

Use cuttings as mulch around members of the brassica family (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, greens). It attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. We have found that placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a problem is very effective in driving them off!
Harvesting of mint leaves can be done at anytime. To keep mint fresh just clip off the sprigs and place them in a jar of water in the home. If you are just harvesting the leaves, you can keep them in the fridge by way of putting them in a Ziploc bag with some water in it. Optionally, mint can be frozen in ice cube trays. Dried mint leaves should be stored in an airtight container placed in a cool, dark, dry area.

Mint contains a number of vitamins and minerals, which are vital to maintain a healthy body. Mint is rich in Vitamins A and C and also contains smaller amounts of Vitamin B2. Vitamin C is an important antioxidant and may help to decrease the risk of certain cancers such as colon and rectal cancer. Although mint may be consumed in small quantities, the vital nutrients obtained are still beneficial to one’s health.

Mint also contains a wide range of essential minerals such as manganese, copper, iron, potassium and calcium.

The healing benefits of mint:
• Relieve symptoms of indigestion, heartburn and irritable bowel syndrome by relaxing the muscles in and around the intestine.
• Act as a powerful antioxidant, protecting the body against the formation of cancerous cells.
• Inhibit the growth of many different types of bacteria and fungus
Ease and unblock the breathing and respiratory passages and airways.
• Relieves the symptoms of colds and flu.
• Mint can help with nasal allergies.
• It can relieve congestion, head colds and headaches.
• Act as a mild sedative and has calming properties.
• Relieve minor aches and pains such as muscle cramps and sprains.
• Combat bad breath.
• Provides a cooling sensation to the skin and can help to treat minor burns, itching and skin irritations.
• Mint is a very good cleanser for the blood.
• Mint tea can help clear up skin disorders such as acne.
• Several species of the mint family work quite well as insect repellants (fleabane, catmint, catnip, pennyroyal).

For more information on Peppermint please click here

Lemongrass

Lemongrass plant

There are a number of herbs that have a lemon or citrus taste, but lemongrass is perhaps the best of them. It’s the stalks that are used to make tea, but be sure to strip off the outer couple of layers as these are too bitter. Once the outer layers are stripped, cut the stalk into roughly 4-inch sections. Lemongrass has a strong flavor, so start out with 2-3 stalk sections per pot of tea and increase the amount if you find it’s not strong enough for you. You can grow lemongrass from fresh stalks of it bought from your local Asian market (allow them to sit in a dish of water until they get roots and new growth, then plant). When growing lemongrass, remember that it’s a tropical plant, so give it a hot environment and plenty of water.

How do I grow lemon grass?

When you go to the grocery store next, find the freshest lemon grass plants you can buy. When you get it home, trim a couple of inches off the top of the lemon grass plants and peel away anything that looks somewhat dead. Take the stalks and put them into a glass of shallow water and put it near a sunny window.

After a few weeks, you should start seeing tiny roots at the bottom of the lemon grass herb stalk. It’s not much different than starting any other plant you start in a glass of water. Wait for the roots to mature a little more and then you can transfer the lemon grass herb to a pot of soil.

Growing lemon grass is as simple as taking your started plant out of the water and putting the rooted stalks into a pot containing all purpose soil with the crown just below the surface. You want to put this pot of lemon grass plants in a warm, sunny spot on a window ledge or out on your patio. Water it regularly.

If you live in a warm climate, you can plant your lemon grass plants out in the backyard in a bog or pond. Of course, growing the plant indoors is nice for having easy access to the fresh plant whenever you need it.

Propagating Lemon Grass

Propagating lemon grass isn’t much different from starting new plants from the store bought lemon grass herb. Just again, take a couple of inches off the top of the grown plant and place them in water in a glass on a window sill. Wait a few weeks and you will once again have a lemon grass herb ready for planting.

Lemon Grass has antimicrobial, analgesic, antipyretic, antioxidant and anti-fungal properties.

Antibacterial

Lemon grass has antimicrobial properties that make it an effective treatment for bacterial and fungal infections. It can be used to clean wounds and treat skin diseases such as ringworm, and to prevent food poisoning, staph infections, and other infections of the colon, stomach, and urinary tract. Lemon grass can also combat diseases such as typhoid and malaria.

Astringent

The astringent properties of lemon grass make it effective in decreasing oil production. It can be added to hair shampoos and conditioners to combat oily hair, or used on the skin to fight acne. Lemon grass also deters the growth of mold.

De-toxifier

Lemon grass helps to cleanse the digestive and circulatory systems by removing excess cholesterol, uric acid, fats, and toxins from the body. This promotes digestion, eases the symptoms of gastroenteritis, and provides relief from gas. It also stimulates blood circulation and lowers blood pressure.

Analgesic

Lemon grass reduces inflammation, making it an effective treatment for pain associated with rheumatism, indigestion and nervous disorders. It also helps to prevent headaches, toothaches, and muscle and joint pain.

• Internal use
  • Treats problems with the digestive system, usually in children and is also useful for relieving muscle spasms.
  • It furthermore has a positive effect on nervous conditions and provides a gentle boost when exhausted.
• External use
  • Lemon grass can be used externally to treat ringworm, lice, athletes foot, arthritis and scabies.
  • It is used to normalize and balance overactive oil glands, dandruff and similar skin problems.

Lemon basil

Lemon Basil in bloom

Another citrus flavored herb, but here the lemon is balanced by the earthy, buttery underlying basil flavor. This is a really tasty tea and one to surprise your friends with – they won’t know what they’re drinking…but they’ll like it! Like any basil, lemon basil is an annual but is pretty easy to grow. It needs warm air, warm earth, plenty of sun and soil that drains quickly. Indoors, it’ll require artificial light to grow properly. Be very careful not to over-water it; the soil should have gone from dark (wet) all the way to light (dry) before you water again.

Where To Grow Basil
Basil has one key requirement – sunshine! Position it in a protected full-sun position in warmer parts of the UK, and if this is not possible, grow in a moveable container. Soil should be well-dug and well-drained. If the soil is heavy, add sharp sand and multipurpose compost to help drainage.

Propagation of Basil
In April, sow three seeds to a small pot in normal moist potting compost. Lightly cover with compost and place in a warm (15C or 60F) dark position – try and keep the temperature as constant as possible, never letting it drop below 10C (48F). The seedlings will emerge in two weeks time and the plant should be placed in a sunny warm position. Basil hates water on it’s leaves and stem, so water from below.
Planting and Care of Basil
Other than sun, basil has few requirements and can be planted outside as soon as the temperature reaches 10°C or more mid-May time normally. Note that basil is killed by any degree of frost and can even be killed when cool temperatures last for a significant period. So if your area is not in a warm part of the UK then grow in a container and be prepared to move the container indoors if there is any threat of frost.

How to Harvest Basil
Pinch or cut the leaves off as required, but always from the top. When the plants begin to produce flowers, pinch those out as soon as possible to encourage more leafy growth.

Fresh basil is by far the best for flavor. However, it can be dried by tying the leafy stems into bunches and hanging them upside down in a dry, warm and dark place until dry. Then crumble the leaves into small particles and store in an airtight jar. Basil will retain almost all its flavor if placed in small plastic bags and put in the freezer.

A more traditional method of preserving all the flavor of basil is to layer the leaves in a jar, and lightly salt them. Cover the leaves with a layer of olive oil.  Seal the lid tightly and place in a cool, dark spot or refrigerate. Use the leaves as needed and reseal each time. This will keep up to six months. The oil soon becomes infused with the essence of the basil, making it ideal for use in dressings or in pastas.

Container Growing Basil
Basil is ideally suited to container growing in normal potting compost. Water regularly (from the base if possible) and feed twice a month with liquid plant food. As the season progresses, move them round the garden to the sunniest and most protected position. Basil will grow well indoors on a sunny windowsill.

In past centuries, the plant was accorded wide respect for its healing potential and was used to purify the mind, open the heart and even cure malaria. Today, herbalists recommend basil as an antispasmodic. It is therefore often used to treat intestinal problems, motion sickness, flatulence and nausea. It also relaxes bronchial spasms and is thus helpful for treating various respiratory illnesses.
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is native to India, Africa and Asia, but after spice traders introduced the herb to Europe in the sixteenth century, its popularity took off; there are now more than 150 varieties grown around the world. Its common names include St. Josephwort, sweet basil and common basil. It is mildly sedative with antibacterial properties and can be used to relieve skin problems, to stimulate the immune system and the adrenal glands, and to prevent vomiting. In additions, fresh leaves can be crushed and rubbed on insect bites to reduce itching and swelling. In Ayurvedic medicine, basil juice is used for snakebites, chills, coughs, earaches and skin problems.

Therapeutic Effect
Thanks to its antispasmodic properties, basil is used for treating flatulence and stomach upset. It also helps ease tension and induce sleep. Its pungent taste triggers the production of saliva, enabling the body to digest food more effectively. It further aids digestion by increasing appetite and the flow of bile. Basil can also stimulate the cilia in the nose, helping to clear the nasal passages of mucus and disease-causing bacteria.

Components
Basil leaves are rich in an essential oil called estragol that is comprised primarily of methylchavicol. The oil is credited for basil’s antispasmodic and germicidal effect. Basil also contains saponines, tannins and flavonoids. Fresh basil also contains carotenoids and folic acid. In its dried form, basil is a good source of calcium, potassium and iron.

Indications
When taken internally, basil is known to ease a nervous stomach, reduce intestinal gas and alleviate constipation and bloating. Its properties stimulate the appetite and digestive juices while soothing inflamed mucus membranes. Because of the herb’s antibacterial properties, basil is favored as a supporting measure for a variety of infections, including gastrointestinal difficulties and urinary tract infections. Make a poultice from basil by simmering the herb for two minutes. Squeeze out the liquid, and apply to wounds that are slow to heal, as well as to fungal infections. Try basil for sleep disorders and headaches. Even a sore throat may be soothed by gargling a basil infusion.

Basil snuff
Basil provides relief from respiratory diseases. Crush the dried herb to a fine powder and sniff it deep into the nose. Drying the leaves increases their essential oil content, thereby strengthening their antibacterial benefits.

Uses
The wonderful scent and flavor of basil makes it one of the most popular garden herbs. Basil brings flavor to a variety of dishes with its very unique, sweet pungency. Medicinally, basil is considered a mild antidepressant, thought to be emotionally uplifting. To ease depression, eat fresh leaves or add 5 drops of essential oil (available at health-food stores) to your bath. For relief from a head cold, pour boiling water over fresh leaves and inhale the steam. Since basil is antiseptic, you can even put diluted oil on cotton balls and then dab on your skin to treat acne.

Methods of Administration

Juice of the leaf
Chop 3-4 cups of basil leaves. Form a bag from a piece of gauze, place the leaves in the bag and press, squeezing the juice from the leaves into a glass. Take 1 tsp. of the juice 3 times daily.

Basil drink
A cooling beverage that does double duty as an appetite stimulant can be made from basil seeds. Use organic seeds or those that come from plants you’ve grown, because the seeds that are sold commercially may be chemically treated. To obtain basil seeds, let a few plants flower; once the blossoms fall off, you’ll easily be able to gather them. To make the drink, mix 1 tbsp. of seeds with 1 cup of nonsparkling mineral water or another beverage. Let the seeds soak in the liquid for a few minutes before drinking.

Infusion
Pour about ¼ cup of boiling water over 2 tsp. of the dried leaves. Steep for 10 minutes. Drink 1 cup of the infusion 2 times daily; after 8 days take a break for 2 weeks, and then repeat the treatment.

Essential Oil
Basil essential oil is used to make compresses and mild massage oils. It is a favored oil for treating arthritic conditions and may even be used as a hair tonic to encourage hair growth and to add highlights.

Caution: Do not use the essential oil on sensitive skin or during pregnancy. Also, as with any essential oil, never take it internally.

There are certainly other tasty herb teas, but the four listed here are perhaps the most instantly likeable. Others can be more of an ‘acquired taste’! Don’t forget that you can mix and match herbs to create your own blends – mint and lemon flavors are almost always welcome in combinations with other more floral herbs.

Soil

Healthy Soil

First it should be pointed out that dirt is always called soil in gardening. Soil is arguably the most important component in a successful garden, so not calling it dirt is a show of respect. However, it is still dirt when it gets on your clothes.

The ideal garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained (internally as well as on the surface), has plenty of organic matter, and is free of weeds and diseases. Such soils are difficult to find, but with proper preparation and management, less-than-ideal soils can be productive.

Water moves quickly through an internally well-drained soil and never completely shuts off air movement. Drainage is important because roots cannot develop, live, and function without a constant supply of oxygen.

Clay soils dry slowly after a rain because the spaces in them are small and water moves through them slowly. Sandy soils, on the other hand, have many spaces and dry out quickly.

Clay and sandy soils can be partially changed to substitute for a rich loam by adding organic matter. Increasing the organic matter content of a clay soil improves the tilth, makes it easier to work, and improves the internal drainage. Adding organic matter to a sandy soil increases its water-holding capacity and improves its fertility.

The garden soil affects the way vegetable plants grow and look. When soils are cold, wet, crusty, or cloddy, seedlings are slow to emerge and some may not survive. Root rot diseases may take a heavy toll on seedlings, especially beans.

Other soil-related plant symptoms are short plants, slow growth, poor color, and shallow and malformed roots. Soil symptoms of poor structure are crusts, hard soil layers below the surface, standing water, and erosion.

Increase the soil’s organic matter content by adding manure, composted leaves, sawdust, bark, or peat moss; or by turning under plant residues like sweet corn stalks and sunflowers after harvest, and green manure crops (soybeans, rye, southern pea plants, and others).

Plant residues should be free of diseases if they are to be added to the garden soil. Cover crops, such as clovers and vetch, planted in the fall prevent soil erosion and leaching of plant nutrients. They also provide organic matter and nitrogen when turned under in spring.

Manures vary in their content of fertilizing nutrients. The amount of straw, age, exposure to the elements, and degree of composting change their composition. Be careful not to over-fertilize when applying chicken litter to garden soil. Use no more than 200 pounds per 1,000 square feet of garden space. Animal manure is lower in nutrient content than poultry manure and can be applied at the rate of 250 to 300 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Overuse of manures can add so much salt to the soil that plant growth is harmed. Most organic materials release some nutrients quickly and the rest over a period of time. Even though adding organic matter improves soil fertility, manures and plant residues are not balanced fertilizers, and soils require additional fertilizer. Test soil annually to be sure.

Amending Your Garden Soil – Making Good Soil out of Bad

What is Good Garden Soil?

Soil is generally evaluated on fertility and texture. Fertility is a combination of essential nutrients and a pH that makes these nutrients available to the plants. Texture refers to the size of the soil particles and their cohesiveness.

Nutrients
The three primary nutrients used by plants are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Nitrogen is largely responsible for healthy leaf and stem growth. In the soil, nitrogen is made available to plants by nitrogen fixing bacteria which convert nitrogen into nitrates, a form plants can use. Nitrogen does not remain in the soil for long. It gets used up by your plants and by decaying matter in the soil. It is also water soluble and can wash out of the soil rather quickly. Even so, an excess of nitrogen will cause a lot of foliage growth at the expense of flowers and fruit.

Phosphorus is very important for root growth. Flowering bulbs and root crops can always use some phosphorous. That’s why bone meal is often recommended for fall bulb planting. It also is crucial for producing flowers and you will sometimes see fertilizers with a high phosphorus content advertised as flower boosters.

Potassium is needed for overall plant health. It keeps the plants growing and aids their immune systems. Like nitrogen, potassium is also water soluble and needs to be replenished from time to time.

Besides the three primary nutrients, there are several trace elements that are necessary for good plant health like:

Calcium: Calcium has been given many names in the context of soil, such as the king of soil nutrients and the soul of soil. All this is true. Good soil needs large quantities of calcium to grow healthy and fruit-bearing plants. The first and foremost role calcium plays in the fertility of soil is reducing its acidity. Let’s find out more about the benefits of calcium and how to add calcium to soil.

Calcium is normally added to soil in the form of limestone or calcium carbonate. You can measure your soil’s pH to decide whether it needs calcium for neutralization or not. However, calcium has more roles to play than maintaining the soil’s pH level, and therefore measures should be taken to add it to the soil before planting anything in it.

If your soil in low in organic matter it needs more calcium. How to add calcium to soil depends on the type of your soil and its location. Calcitic limestone is easily available on the market and is an excellent source of soil calcium. It is basically a calcium carbonate salt (above 90% concentration) in which magnesium percentage is quite low – an ideal blend for the fertilization of your soil.

Try to find very finely ground lime. This lime is easily absorbed by the soil and reacts readily with other substances to produce better results. It should be mentioned in this guide of how to add calcium to soil that calcium carbonate or lime is best absorbed by soil in autumn. In addition to calcitic limestone, dolomite lime is also available as a fertilizer but it is not as effective as calcitic lime.

Apply small quantities of lime to your soil over a period of several years if you want to see a healthy and fruitful soil in the long-run. Don’t plow it deep down, leave it more on the surface and wait for the results. Remember that magnesium decreases the rate by which plants absorb calcium. Therefore, try to find fertilizers which have a low concentration of magnesium.

Calcium nitrate can also be used as a source of calcium for soil. Gypsum which contains only 20% calcium is used when the pH level is already normal. Calcium improves soil structure, decreases the effect of toxic substances, and helps in regulating nutrient absorption in plants and trees.

Magnesium: Magnesium content can deteriorate quickly, especially during rain or watering. Magnesium is quite water-soluble and gets leached to the lower layers of the soil easily. It is brought back up by tree roots. It is therefore important to return the falling leaves to the topsoil.

Unless you live in an area where the dolomitic rocks is dissolve in the water, you can be pretty sure that magnesium would benefit your garden, especially if you are not adding tree leaves. Magnesium shortage is a real problem in most parts of the world. It is caused when we water or irrigate instead of growing what is natural for the climatic conditions. It causes a serious calcium metabolism problem in people and animals, because calcium cannot be used without magnesium.

Extreme magnesium deficiency is recognized by pale green leaves and by blossom and fruit rot, but don’t wait for that. Sprinkle dolomite or Epsom salt on the soil from time to time, or add a little Epsom salt to the water. Using a little frequently is better than using a lot once, because the excess just gets leached.

Epsom salt recipe: Dissolve 2 tablespoons of Epsom salt in 1 gal. of water. For healthy nightshade plants (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants) water just as flowering starts. Or use this mixture as a foliage spray in the garden and on house plants.

Zinc: Essential for the transformation of carbohydrates.  Regulates consumption of sugars.  Part of the enzyme systems which regulate plant growth. Sources of zinc are soil, zinc oxide, zinc sulfate, zinc chelate.

pH
A lot is made of soil pH. In laymen’s terms, pH is a measure of the soil acidity or alkalinity. The scale goes from 1.0 to 14.0, with 7.0 being neutral. The lower the numbers go from 7.0, the more acidic the soil.

The higher they go above 7.0, the more alkaline.

The reason soil pH matters is that nutrients in the soil are only available to plants if the soil pH is within a certain range. Many plants like a pH in the low acid to neutral range (6.2 – 6.8), but that’s not true for all plants.

Rhododendrons, heathers and blueberries favor very acid soils and lilacs and clematis will thrive in alkaline or even chalky soil.

The only sure fire way to know where your soil’s pH falls is to have it tested. Keep in mind that it takes time to alter soil pH and your soil will tend to revert to its old pH over time, necessitating repeated treatment.

Texture
Soil texture is a little trickier to amend than soil fertility. Texture refers to the size of the soil particles. Sandy soils have very large particles. Water, air and plant roots can move freely in sandy soils, sometimes too much so. At the other end of the spectrum is clay.

Clay particles are so small they pack together tightly and leave little room for water, air or roots. If you’ve ever tried to garden in baked clay you know it also leaves little room for a shovel blade.

An easy test for soil texture is to make a ball of damp garden soil. If it breaks apart when you tap it, it’s sandy. If you can press it between your thumb and finger and make a ribbon, it’s clay.

Most soils are somewhere in-between. What you are ideally going for is called a sandy loam. It should be light and allow for air and water movement, but have some tilth, a kind of fine bread crumb like texture, which usually occurs when there is plenty of organic matter in the soil.

Don’t try to change your soil texture by adding sand to clay or vice versa. That is a recipe for cement. Some amendment recommendations for clay do include a portion of very fine sand, but there are better ways to change your soil texture.

Once you know what your soil’s texture is, you will be able to make more informed decisions about what crops to grow and when to plant them, how often to water your garden and how much compost (or other sources of nutrients and organic matter) you need to add to help your crops stay healthy.

It is important to realize that any soil, no matter what texture, can benefit from having organic matter, such as compost, added to it.

Organic matter helps clay soils become better aerated and lighter, so they will be less likely to turn brick-hard just when you were planning on putting your tomatoes in.

Organic matter helps sandy soils absorb more water so that your garden crops will be thirsty less often. It also provides an organic source of nutrients to your plants.

By identifying your soil’s texture and becoming informed about the advantages and disadvantages of its texture type, you’ll gain a new appreciation for your soil and its natural characteristics. This is the first step in reaching a truce with troubled garden soils and learning to appreciate your soil.

Organic Matter
Like soil pH, organic matter gets a great deal of press. Organic matter is dead plant or animal material. There is always some organic matter in your soil, but usually not enough for a plant’s needs. Decaying organic matter, or humus, will help give your soil tilth. It helps sandy soil by retaining water that would otherwise wash away and it corrects clay soil by making it looser, so that air, water and roots can penetrate. In all soils, it encourages beneficial microbial activity and it provides some nutritional benefits. Humus is nature’s way of feeding the circle of life.

How Do You Know if You Have Bad Soil

The only definitive way to know for sure is to have it tested. Your Cooperative Extension probably provides this service for a nominal fee. Many nurseries also test soil.

A quick guestimate of your soils health can be made by looking at your plants health. If they are thriving, don’t fix what isn’t broken. If your plants are languishing, yellowing or otherwise looking sickly or you feel like you are forever feeding them, it would be worth testing your soil.

Maintaining good soil is your most important task as a gardener-even more important than maintaining your plants. If you’re starting a new garden or your plants and flowers just aren’t growing well despite your best efforts, then having your soil tested probably makes sense. Sending your soil to a laboratory, however, can be both costly and time consuming and unless you’re a trained agronomist, the results are often difficult to understand. Fortunately, there are easy ways to test your soil at home. Of course, they are not as scientifically accurate or exacting as laboratory tests, but they will provide you with a basic understanding of your soil.

Do-It-Yourself Soil Tests

Learning as much as you can about your soil will help you decide what needs to be done to make it ideal for the plants you want to grow. If you can learn about your soil’s texture, composition, drainage, acidity, and mineral density, you will avoid, up front, the disappointing results that can occur when your soil is unsuitable for your dream garden.

Now that you know what type of soil you have, you can work on improving it.

Soil Test #1: The Squeeze Test

One of the most basic characteristics of soil is its composition. In general, soils are classified as clay soils, sandy soils, or loamy soils. Clay is nutrient rich, but slow draining. Sand is quick draining, but has trouble retaining nutrients and moisture. Loam is generally considered to be ideal soil because it retains moisture and nutrients but doesn’t stay soggy.

To determine your soil type, take a handful of moist (but not wet) soil from your garden, and give it a firm squeeze. Then, open your hand.

One of three things will happen:

1. It will hold its shape, and when you give it a light poke, it crumbles. Lucky you—this means you have luxurious loam!
2. It will hold its shape, and, when poked, sits stubbornly in your hand. This means you have clay soil.
3. It will fall apart as soon as you open your hand. This means you have sandy soil.
4. If, on the other hand, it feels greasy in your hands, your soil contains a fair amount of silt.

Soil Test #2: The Percolation Test

It is also important to determine whether you have drainage problems or not. Some plants, such as certain culinary herbs, will eventually die if their roots stay too wet. To test your soil’s drainage:

1. Dig a hole about six inches wide and one foot deep.
2. Fill the hole with water and let it drain completely.
3. Fill it with water again.
4. Keep track of how long it takes for the water to drain.

If the water takes more than four hours to drain, you have poor drainage.

Soil Test #3: Testing for Organic Matter

The Worm Test

Worms are great indicators of the overall health of your soil, especially in terms of biological activity, because they tend to gravitate to areas high in organic nutrients. If you have earthworms, chances are that you also have all of the beneficial microbes and bacteria that make for healthy soil and strong plants.

To do the worm test:

1. Be sure the soil has warmed to at least 55 degrees, and that it is at least somewhat moist, but not soaking wet.
2. Dig a hole one foot across and one foot deep. Place the soil on a tarp or piece of cardboard.
3. Sift through the soil with your hands as you place it back into the hole, counting the earthworms as you go.

If you find at least ten worms, your soil is in pretty good shape. Less than that indicates that there may not be enough organic matter in your soil to support a healthy worm population, or that your soil is too acidic or alkaline.

Tomatoes: If you garden is lacking in nutrients, your plants will be usually your best indicators.

Tomatoes, for example, respond to a variety of soil deficiencies:

• Nitrogen: slow growth and yellowing foliage
• Iron: veins stay green but leaves turn yellow or light green
• Potassium: noticeable streaking, spotting, curling or mottling of older leaves
• Phosphorus: small plants with dark green/blue foliage and poor fruit development
• Calcium: blossom end rot, young leaves remain wrinkled and folded

Nitrogen Fixing Plants: Dig up and examine the nodules of nitrogen fixing plants, like peas, beans, alfalfa and clover. When broken open, the nodules should be pink if they are fixing and storing nitrogen like they are supposed to be.

Soil Test #4: Ph Test

The Ph (acidity level) of your soil has a large part to do with how well your plants grow. Ph is tested on a scale of zero to fourteen, with zero being very acidic and fourteen being very alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a fairly neutral Ph, between six and seven. When the Ph level is lower than five or higher than eight, plants just won’t grow as well as they should.

Look no further than the native weeds growing in and around your garden to get an idea of your soil’s pH levels. Hawkweed, horsetail, lady’s thumb, dock and sorrel, for example, all prefer to grow in acidic soil.

You can find inexpensive, do-it-yourself pH test kits available at most garden centers. These kits are fairly accurate, but you must make sure you follow the testing instructions precisely. Once you know whether your soil Ph is a problem or not, you can begin working to correct the problem.

If you find that you’ve done all of these tests, and amended the soil as needed to correct the issues, and your plants are still struggling along, the next step is to contact your local cooperative extension service. They will tell you how to go about collecting a soil sample and sending it into their lab for analysis. They will return a report that will alert you to any mineral deficiencies in your soil, as well as steps to correct the issues.

These tests are simple, inexpensive ways to ensure that your garden has the best foundation possible.

Make Your Own Soil Testing Kit

You can make your own kit to test your soil’s pH, but keep in mind that it will only give you a general indication of acidity or alkalinity. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. it won’t be as accurate as getting your soil tested by a certified lab. To make your own pH testing kit, you’ll need a couple of glass jars, some vinegar and some baking soda. Start by spooning several tablespoons of soil from your garden into a jar. Take two to three samples of dirt from the topsoil and two to three samples from 3-4 inches deep. Mix all of the dirt together. Now spoon two tablespoons of the mixed soil into each jar and mix in a little bit of water until the soil is just moistened.

In a separate container, mix a tablespoon of baking soda with two tablespoons of water. Pour this into one of the jars containing soil. If the soil starts to bubble or fizz, it may mean your soil is on the acidic side of the pH scale. If it doesn’t fizz at all, you may have alkaline soil.

Now add a tablespoon of white vinegar into the second jar containing a mixture of your soil. This time if it fizzes, it may mean your soil is more on the alkaline side of the pH scale.

If your soil is acidic, you will want to increase soil pH. Lime is most commonly used. To lower the pH of alkaline soils, use compost and manure. Remember, changing your soil’s pH takes time. The best time to perform a soil test and add amendments to your soil is in the fall.

Making Good Soil

If your pH is off, you will get a recommendation for adding either lime, to raise the alkalinity, or sulfur, to lower the pH. This is easy enough to do and should be done in stages, so as not to shock the plants. Generally it is recommended that you not add more than 5 pounds of lime or sulfur per 100 sq. ft. of existing garden.

Adding Nutrients
If you find you need to add nutrients to your soil, you’ll have the choice of organic or inorganic. Inorganic fertilizer has some pluses in its favor. It is usually cheaper than organic fertilizer and it acts more quickly. However, it does nothing for the soil and in some cases actually damages the soil with its higher salt content. So inorganic fertilizers don’t actually amend the soil, they simply feed the plant. It is kind of like a human being trying to survive on vitamin supplements and no substantial food. There have also been some recent studies that claim plants build up a resistance to inorganic fertilizers and require more and more of them to get the same results.

That organic fertilizers are slower acting is actually a good thing. They release their nutrients over a period of time. There are many good complete organic fertilizers on the market. A complete fertilizer is one that contains all three primary nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You can also get supplemental nutrition from products like manure and fish emulsion for nitrogen, bone meal for phosphorus and wood ashes for potassium. If you’ve had your soil tested, you’ll know what you need to add.

Adding Organic Matter
Organic matter is the only amendment that aids both the fertility and the texture of the soil. Whether it’s animal manure or plant humus, you will be feeding the soil and the whole ecosystem that exists there. The soil in turn will feed your plants.

There are many types of organic matter.

• Compost makes an excellent amendment and if you are composting your garden waste, it’s free.
• Manure can often be obtained from local farms and stables. Manure should be composted and decomposed until it turns dark, crumbly and odorless. Fresh manure has too much ammonia in it and can burn your plants and offend your neighbors.
• Peat moss is cheap and works well to loosen the soil. It is also very dusty. Wet it first to make it easier to work with.
• You can even work grass clipping and other debris directly into the garden bed to decompose slowly. Be sure whatever you put down is free of seed.
• Cover crops or green manure are crops grown on unused soil with the intent of tilling them in and letting them decompose in the garden. The roots keep the soil loosened as they grow and the plants suppress weeds. Cover crops from the legume family, like clover and vetch, also add nitrogen to the soil.

Bottom Line

Adjusting your soils pH, fertility and texture to your plants liking is the final say in making good soil. Your plants will determine what your soil’s pH should be. Organic matter will improve the soil in the long run. All soil will benefit from the addition of organic matter. How well your soil incorporates the organic matter will determine how much supplemental feeding will be necessary.

Function of Elements in Plant Health

ELEMENTS	FUNCTIONS
Boron (B)	Stimulates cell division, flower formation and pollination
Calcium (Ca)	Raises soil pH; promotes root hair formation and early growth
Chlorine (Cl)	Needed for photosynthesis; stimulates root growth and aids water circulation in plants
Cobalt (Co)	Improves growth, water circulation, and photosynthesis
Copper (Cu)	Stimulates stem development and pigment formation
Iron (Fe)	Stimulates the formation of chlorophyll and helps oxidize sugar for energy; also necessary for legume nitrogen fixation. It regulates the respiration of the plant’s cells.
Magnesium (Mg)	Aids in chlorophyll formation and energy metabolism; it increases oil production in flax and soy beans; helps regulate uptake of other elements. It also promotes healthy, disease-resistant plants. It is generally available in acidic soils.
Manganese (Mn)	Necessary for the formation of chlorophyll
Molybdenum (Mo)	Needed for nitrogen fixation and nitrogen use in the plant; stimulates plant growth and vigor much like nitrogen
Nitrogen (N)	Necessary for chlorophyll and genetic material (DNA & RNA) formation; stimulates green, leafy growth
Phosphorous (P)	Necessary for genetic material (DNA & RNA) formation; stimulates fruit, flower and root production, and early season growth; increases disease resistance
Potassium (K)	Associated with movement of water, nutrients, and carbohydrates in plant tissue. Stimulates early growth. Helps in the building of protein, photosynthesis, fruit quality and reduction of diseases.
Silicon (Si)	Increases number of seeds; strengthens cell walls of plants
Sodium (Na)	Increases resistance to drought; increases sugar content in some crops
Sulfur (S)	Aids in formation of certain oil compounds that give specific odors to some plants such as onions, garlic, mustard, etc; increases oil production in flax and soy beans
Zinc (Z)	Stimulates stem growth and flower bud formation

3rd Number = Potassium: The final number states the concentration of potassium. Potassium contributes to the overall health and vigor of plants. Again, a 5-10-5 fertilizer would contain 5% potassium by weight or .05 pounds of potassium. (The 10 pound bag mentioned above would contain .5 lb. potassium.)

Complete Fertilizers: Fertilizers that contain all three major nutrients are considered complete fertilizers. There are specialized fertilizers which are called incomplete because they lack one or more major nutrients such as a fertilizer labeled 0-20-20.

Fertilizer Ratio (An easier comparison): An easier way to compare the numbers is to break them down to the fertilizer ratio or the amounts of the 3 major nutrients in relation to each other. A 5-10-5 fertilizer has a ratio of 1-2-1. This becomes important when looking for a fertilizer for a specific need. A 1-2-1 ratio is often recommended for vegetables, which need plenty of phosphorous to set fruit. 1-2-1 could be 5-10-5, 10-20-10 or any similar extrapolation.

Other Ingredients: Any additional ingredients should be listed on the side label, but many times it is not. This may include other nutrients like calcium, magnesium, iron, micronutrients and even the percentage of organic matter.

When to Plant What

Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average Last Spring Frost Date

How to find your average last frost date.

It’s important to plant your garden seeds at the right time, and the key is knowing when your area will see its last spring frost. Some garden plants taste even better after a little frost, but you’ll sure be sorry if you put your warm season crops in the ground too soon.

Some crops thrive in cool weather, while others only grow well when it’s warmer. So how do you know when to plant what? The key factor that should guide your decisions is your average last spring frost date.

Most cool season crops, like cabbage, broccoli, lettuce and many others, can tolerate a light frost and will grow best when sown a couple weeks before your last spring frost.

Some, like peas and spinach, are so cold-hardy they can even be planted “as soon as the ground can be worked,” as many seed packets say. But warm season crops like squash, cucumber, and basil will be killed by frost if your seeds come up too soon. Ditto for warm season transplants such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants — if you don’t wait until danger of frost has passed before you set them out, a late frost will kill them.

Thus on seed packets you often see “Plant after all danger of frost has passed.” So, how do you find the average last spring frost date for your area? There are U.S. maps that show last frost dates, but it’s hard to find your exact local dates on them.

Your best bet is to go to http://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/ it will show your average last spring and first fall frost dates.

Here’s a summary of which crops to plant early, and which ones not to plant until after your last spring frost date:

Very early spring (as soon as the ground can be worked)

• Onions
• peas
• spinach

Early spring

• lettuce
• beets
• carrots
• radishes
• dill
• cilantro
• cabbage
• broccoli
• celery
• kale
• potatoes

After last frost date

• beans
• corn
• melons
• cucumbers
• squash
• tomatoes
• peppers
• pumpkins
• eggplant
• basil