5/10/09

Cordite Country Show Notes for Sunday- May 10, 2009

Topics: Marigolds; Marjoram; Dandelion Honey; Basic Herb Jelly; Compost Tea; Corn; Beans; Squash.

MARIGOLDS– Marigolds are the work horse of the garden. They work hard to help improve the flavor of the vegetables that they are planted with and they also repel bad bugs. Blossoms have a citrus taste and can be used to perk up vegetables, pasta, and salads. Marigolds are easy to grow and like full sun.

Annual Marigolds can be used anywhere to deter Mexican bean beetles, squash bugs, thrips, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies. They are also known to repel harmful root knot nematodes (soil dwelling microscopic white worms) that attack tomatoes, potatoes, roses, and strawberries. The root of the Marigold produces a chemical that kills nematodes as they enter the soil. If a whole area is infested, at the end of the season, turn the Marigolds under so the roots will decay in the soil. You can safely plant there again the following spring. Grow around cukes, watermelons.

French marigold has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were had died off. These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds. Do not plant French marigolds next to bean plants.

Mexican marigold is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.

Locate a planting site having both good draining soil and 6 hours or more of direct sunlight. Add compost to improve poor soil or drainage.

For planting seedlings/transplants:

Place each marigold into a hole dug deep enough to cover its roots and stem base. Look at your label for the type of marigold. Large varieties need about 18 inches between plants and smaller flowers about 5 inches. Water lightly.

Direct Seed:

Grow from seeds by placing them 1/4 inch below the ground with a shallow soil cover. Water seeds after sowing. Read seed packet for type of marigold and spacing.  Remove any fading flowers before they turn to seed. This process, called deadheading, enables the marigold to produce more flowers.

Healing

Originally a native plant of ancient Egypt, and first introduced into Britain by the Romans, Marigold is one of the earliest cultivated flowers. It was also known to the ancient Greeks, who used it’s petals for decoration, to color foods and cosmetics and as a material dye.  The Roman’s and the ancient Greeks drank Marigold tea to relieve nervous tension and sleeplessness. It has also been used in cooking, skin care and was a well-known symbol of good luck.

Marigold has been cultivated in European gardens since about the 12th century. By the 14th century, the plant had become endowed with almost magical powers.

Marigold has been used for hundreds of years as a ‘pot’ herb. The addition of its flowers to a broth is said to ‘strengthen and comfort the heart’.

In Holland during the Middle Ages, merchants kept barrels of dried marigold flowers in their stores, as they were considered a staple ingredient for soups and stews. The petals were widely used to give the yellow color to cheese as well.

Only Marigold’s flower heads are used medicinally. The bright petals contain powerful natural chemicals that give the herb its’ amazing healing properties, so always ensure that you use the most vibrant orange flowers available.

Marigold is well known as a wound-healing, antiseptic and stimulating remedy, but in fact modern herbalists rely upon this plant for a wide range of uses. Some of Marigold’s other potential actions, including alterative, analgesic, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, aperient, astringent, bactericide, carminative, cholagogue, depurative, diuretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, stomachic, styptic and tonic.

The brighter the color of the flower, the greater the amount of active constituents its’ petals contain.

Chemical Constituents

Marigold petals are found to contain carotenes (pigments resent in their orange coloring), flavonoids, resin, saponin, sterols, triterpenes, bitter glycosides and volatile oils.

Some of the substances, in combination with the high resin content, provide Marigold with its’ powerful anti-inflammatory action. It is a good remedy for inflamed skin and for a range of microbial and parasitic infections. The plant has an estrogenic action, which is probably due to its’ sterol and saponin content, which is why it makes a useful regulator of hormones in the female body.

The petals of marigolds can also be used as insect repellant and as a soothing and softening ingredient in homemade lotions.

To make a quick insect repellant:

Steep 1 cup of marigold petals in 2 cups of hot water for 15-30 minutes (depending on how strong you want the infusion). Strain and bottle. I enjoy putting this marigold mix into spray bottles and keeping them in the fridge. On hot summer days, it gives you a nice cool, refreshing mist when you are applying it as an insect repellant. To extend its shelf life, just add a few drops of vegetable glycerin (buy organic at herb store) or add ½ dropperful of witch hazel.

Making an extract from marigold petals is a simple thing to do. Pick the flowers in the morning when the dew has dried, and spread out on paper or cardboard, in a shady spot to dry. When sufficiently dried, remove the yellow petals and store in a glass container. You can also dry them in a dehydrator or in the oven.

Take a ½ cup of grapeseed/olive oil, add about 2 tablespoons of dried petals, and store in a covered jar in a dark cupboard, for 2-3 weeks. Shake gently every couple of days. When time is up, strain off the petals and add them to your compost. Use the infused oil as is, or add it to creams, soaps and lotions.

Tea made from marigolds is good for sore and swollen eyes. Soak cotton pads in the liquid and cover your eyes while lying down. Later, use the rest of the liquid to splash and bathe your eyes, it is wonderfully refreshing. Fresh marigold flowers rubbed on a bee or wasp sting will quickly take away the pain.

Boiling marigold flowers in water yields a yellow liquid that can serve as a final rinse for blonde hair. It conditions the hair and scalp and gives highlights.

Shelf Life of Flowers

Dried flowers last 6-12 months; fresh flower heads should be used immediately to ensure maximum potency.
Marigold’s astringent action is reportedly due to its’ high resin component, and possibly to other water-soluble constituents. Marigold is known to reduce blood seeping from capillaries and, in particular, one of its’ chemicals has been found to promote the clotting of blood. Its’ added ability to help wounds heal over makes Marigold a premier choice for cuts and grazes.

Shelf Life of Seeds

Seeds last 1-2 years, but with suitable storage facilities the seeds will usually keep for much longer. Suitable storage means to be kept in a water/air tight container and not in direct light.

To Sum it all up:

How Marigold can help

• Ideal of healing cuts, scrapes, lacerations, surgical wounds and scars, small infected wounds, animal bites and scratches.
• Useful for skin conditions such as acne, shingles, chickenpox, dermatitis, eczema sores, impetigo spots and other systemic fungal, bacterial and viral conditions.
• An effective aid to healing minor first degree burns, such as sunburn.
• Helps to soothe bee, wasp and insect stings.
• An aid to healing cold sores.
• An antiseptic remedy for mouth and throat infections.
• Soothes toothache.
• Has a wide number of uses in childbirth, including the healing of episiotomies. Relieves sore nipples in nursing mothers.
• Ideal for complaints such as candida, leucorrhea and trichomoniasis.
  A safe remedy for babies’ complaints, such as diaper rash or an inflamed navel or penis.
• Antiseptic action helps speed children’s recovery from mumps and measles.
• A useful remedy for bruises.
• An excellent treatment for varicose veins and ulcers.

How Marigold Affects the Body

Marigold can help many of the body’s systems, because it works to clear and heal the toxins that are the cause of many conditions and diseases.
Applied externally to the skin, Marigold is primarily a wound-healer, but it also has an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial effect.

Taken internally, it affects the body in a number of ways:

• Marigold improves the circulation.
• Its’ estrogenic effect balances the female reproductive system. For example, it may be used in cases of painful or scanty menstruation.
• It helps counteract bacterial, fungal and viral inflammatory conditions of the digestive system, including peptic ulcers, gastritis and candida.
  Within the urinary system, Marigold has a safely diuretic and detoxifying action.
• Marigold is a potent purifier of the body and gives invaluable support to the lymphatic and immune systems.
• By color, action and flavor, Marigold is a prime liver and gallbladder herb. It can help to treat a number of conditions and diseases arising in these organs and in other digestive organs, for example the stomach itself. It will clear, cool and detoxify the digestive system.

Marigold and Aids

Laboratory experiments have shown that a solvent extract of Marigold flowers can inhibit the replication of human immunodeficiency virus type I (HIV-I). This positive outcome seems to be due to it’s effect upon a viral enzyme called RT (reverse transcriptase), which is the target of some existing HIV drug treatments, such as AZT. The results of these studies, which appeared in Biomed Pharmacother suggest that Marigold may be of some therapeutic use in the treatment of AIDS and should be explored further.

Marjoram

Marjoram is native to the Mediterranean region. It grows profusely in Sicily and one of its cities is named after it. Sicilians believed that marjoram had the power to banish sorrow.

In the isle of Crete, marjoram was once a symbol of honor worn by its leaders. It has sacred associations the Hindu religion. During the Middle Ages, marjoram was used abundantly, especially to preserve and disinfect meat that was less than fresh.

The ancient Greeks used marjoram in their cosmetics, fragrances and medicines; Greek physicians also used it as an antidote to poison. In ancient Egypt, it was known for its healing properties and was also used as an anti-depressant to aid those who were grieving. In 16^th century Europe, linen bags filled with sweet marjoram were used to scent bath water and for washing clothes.

Marjoram yields some of the finest and most fragrant essential oil among all herbs. It is widely used in aromatherapy, added to perfumes and as a warming and soothing massage oil to provide relief for muscle aches and pain.

It is used to fight asthma, headaches and to soothe the stomach and digestive tract.

It acts as a decongestant and is useful in combating bronchitis, sinusitis and sinus headaches. Used as a tonic for the nervous system, marjoram is believed to be more calming than oregano, as it is used to soothe the nerves, reduce tension and stress; especially environmental.

One of the components in marjoram is the flavonoids which have sedation qualities which help to relieve insomnia, tension headaches and migraines.

Promoting healthy digestion and treating simple gastrointestinal disorders, such as loss of appetite, indigestion, nausea and flatulence is another benefit in using marjoram. Much like the herb peppermint, it is said to soothe minor digestive upsets and colic. The flavonoids also promote healthy arteries and heart by preventing cholesterol buildup and improving blood circulation. It is also thought to help individuals with Alzheimer’s disease.

Containing anti-inflammatory properties, marjoram can be used internally or externally.

When used externally, alleviates aches and pains, aids in the reduction of toothaches, muscular pain, bruises, arthritis, sprains and stiff joints.

Used internally, it eases severe stomach cramps, spasms and painful menstruation. Marjoram stimulates perspiration, which also helps to rid the body of toxins through the skin. Moreover, this quality helps in the reduction of fevers, and helps to relieve cold and flu symptoms. The aromatic qualities of marjoram can also curb sexual desire and alleviate many other emotional effects brought on by insomnia, stress, anxiety and depression.

There are a few different varieties of marjoram. They include sweet marjarom (most commonly used), winter marjarom (of Greek origin), and a Sicilian variety known as pot marjarom.

Because of marjoram’s similarities to oregano, it is sometimes mixed with, or sold as oregano. But despite the similarities in looks, the two herbs are easily differentiated by taste. Oregano has a bolder, sharper taste, while marjoram has a distinctly mild and thyme-like flavor in comparison.

Sweet marjoram grows up to 24 inches in height. It should not be confused with wild marjoram, also known as common oregano (Origanum vulgare).

Sweet marjoram should also not be confused with Spanish marjoram, which is a variety of thyme with different aromatic properties and uses. As with the use of all essential oils, professional advice should be taken if unfamiliar with the use of essential oils and the practice of aromatherapy.

The whole plant, leaves, flowering heads and seeds are used and an essential oil is also extracted.

Tips

Marjoram is sold both fresh and dried. If buying fresh marjoram, make sure the bunch you purchase is crisp and not wilting. To ensure freshness, place its stems in water, as you would a vase of flowers. Fresh marjoram keeps for up to one week. If you want to dry your own herbs, make sure you set the sprigs out when the flowers, stems and leaves are brightest and fullest. You should bunch and store them together in a dark area that is both dry and warm. After a few days of drying out your marjoram, you should be able to rub the leaves off the stem and store them in airtight containers. Eggs, breads, stuffings, fish, veal, pork, and vegetables, (especially salads), can all be improved by adding this herb.

Externally, Marjoram leaves can be ground into a paste (add hot tea or water, and a little oatmeal for consistency purposes, if desired), and used for the pain of rheumatism and for sprains.  The leaves can be made into an oil for relief of toothache pain – drop a few drops of the oil on the affected tooth. Leaves can also be placed in cheesecloth or a coffee filter and placed under the tap for a fragrant and refreshing bath that is believed good for the skin.

Other Uses of Marjoram

Sweet marjoram oil is used as a fragrance ingredient in perfumes, cosmetics, soaps and detergents; it is also found in meats, sauces and seasonings in the food industry. Marjoram is present in alcohol and soft drinks too.

Cautions for Using Marjoram Oil

Sweet marjoram essential oil is a non-irritant, non-toxic and non-sensitizing; however, it should not be used in pregnancy or with children under twelve years of age. Due to its sedative properties, marjoram should not be used for a prolonged length of time as it may cause drowsiness.

Growing Marjoram

Sweet Marjoram will grow well in any fertile, well-drained and loamy garden soil. Since the seed is very small, it is best sown in flats in the greenhouse and the seedlings transplanted outside after all danger of frost has passed.

Wild Marjoram is thought to smell more like thyme but will grow well even in poor soil. Although it’s leaves are used to flavor some dishes, most chefs do not consider Wild Marjoram as useful as Sweet Marjoram in the kitchen. Wild Marjoram is easily started by seed or root division.

Marjoram, also called sweet marjoram and knotted marjoram, is a tender perennial grown as an annual. Sow marjoram in the garden after the last frost in spring. To get a head start on the season, sow marjoram as early as 4 weeks before the average last frost date in spring for transplanting out after the last frost. Marjoram also can be grown from root divisions.

Description. Marjoram is an upright branching perennial that grows 10 to 20 inches tall. It has small, fuzzy, opposite, gray leaves on reddish stems. Unopened flower clusters in late summer resemble knots giving it the common name knotted marjoram. Flowers open lavender, pink, and white.

Site. Plant marjoram in full sun; it will tolerate light shade. Grow marjoram in loose, well-drained soil. Marjoram prefers a soil pH of 6.7 to 7.0. Marjoram can thrives in poor soil that is well drained.

Planting time. Sow marjoram seeds or transplants on the average date of last frost in spring. To get a head start on the season, sow marjoram as early as 4 weeks before the average last frost date in for transplanting out after the last frost. Marjoram is slow to germinate so sowing indoors at 70°F is optimal. Marjoram also can be grown from root divisions taken in fall, over-wintered indoors, and set out in spring.

Planting and spacing. Sow marjoram seed ¼ inch deep; thin successful seedlings or set transplants to 6 inches apart. Space rows 18 to 24 inches apart.

Water and feeding. Give marjoram regular even water until it is established. Once established water marjoram sparingly allowing the soil to dry between waterings. Moist soil will cause marjoram to be less flavorful. Foliar feed marjoram by spraying with compost tea or liquid seaweed extract 2 to 3 times during the growing season.

Companion plants. Marjoram grows well with all vegetables and herbs.

Care. Keep marjoram pinched back to induce bushy growth and enhance flavor. Mulch marjoram in warm weather to protect roots from too much heat. In cold-winter regions, divide plants in fall and over-winter indoors for re-planting out in spring.

Container growing. Marjoram grows easily as an annual in containers. Select a container 6 inches deep. Potted marjoram can be grown indoors in a bright, sunny window.

Pests. Marjoram has no serious pest problems. Aphids and spider mites may attack marjoram but they can be sprayed away with a strong stream of water.

Diseases. Marjoram has no serious disease problems. Marjoram grown in wet soil or wet weather may suffer from root rot or damping off.

Harvest. Marjoram is ready for harvest 60 days after sowing. Cut fresh leaves as needed once plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. Cut-and-come-again harvesting will renew plants. Flavor is best before the plant flowers.

Varieties. ‘Aureum’ is creeping golden marjoram; ‘Aureum Crispum’ has curly golden leaves; ‘Compactum’ is low growing; ‘Thumbles Variety’ is green and gold variegated; ‘Kaliteri’ has silver-gray leaves; ‘White Anniversary’ is green and white variegated. Italian oregano (O. x majoricum) is a pungent oregano and sweet marjoram hybrid.

Storing and preserving. Keep fresh marjoram in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. Dry leaves and flowers in a warm place and store them in an airtight container.

Step 1: Carefully use a sharp knife to free the edges of the plant’s root ball from the pot. Carefully invert the container, supporting the root ball with your open palm.

Gently slide the plant’s container from the root ball, avoiding tugging on the plant, its foliage or stems. Divide the plant, making sure that each has a root ball of its own. Replant your divisions, each in its own container. Water with some compost tea, to settle the soil. Give your newly transplanted plants ideal growing conditions for the next 6-8 weeks.

Dandelion Honey Recipe

Weed those pesky dandelions from your lawn and make a treat from the flowers. Dandelion honey is great on toast, muffins, pancakes, and biscuits.

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 4 hours,

Ingredients:

• 4 cups dandelion petals
• 4 cups water
• 3 (1/4-inch) thick slices lemon
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split in half
• 2-1/8 cups granulated white sugar

Preparation:

Pick dandelion flowers during the daylight while in full bloom, remove petals, then measure petals only.

Place petals in a heavy saucepan along with the water, lemon slices, and vanilla bean. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and let steep for 6 hours.

Strain dandelion tea through cheesecloth and discard solids. Place in a heavy saucepan and bring to a low boil. Gradually add sugar while stirring until sugar is dissolved. Lower heat and let simmer to desired syrupy thickness (may take up to 4 hours).

Dandelion Honey is great on toast, muffins, pancakes, and biscuits.

Yield: about 1 cup

Basic Herb Jelly

This is the greatest basic jelly recipe that I’ve come across. So versatile.

2 cups water or 2 1/2-cups fruit juice or wine
1 cup fresh herbs
4 cups sugar
1/4 cup cider vinegar or lemon juice
1 drop food coloring — or as needed
3 ounces liquid pectin
fresh herb sprigs or 1/2 cup chopped herbs — optional

This jelly can be made with a variety of herbs and herb flowers. If fresh herbs are not available, substitute one-third the amount of dried herbs.

Use vinegar if you are making a jelly to be eaten as a savory with meats or cheese; lemon juice if it is to be eaten as a sweet.

Any fruit juice or wine can be used in place of the water for greater variety, and you can combine two or more herbs in one jelly.

If you are using flowers that do not seem to be giving up their color in the water, add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar to the water while they are steeping.

The following herbs and/or their flowers are among the many that can be used in this recipe: rosemary, thyme, marjoram, parsley, lemon verbena, mint, any of the scented basils, tarragon, ginger, garlic, chive blossom, lavender, lemon thyme, chamomile, fennel, borage, bee balm, or rose petals. Be sure to remove any pith.

INSTRUCTIONS:

• Bring the water or fruit juice to a boil and pour it over the fresh herbs. Cover and steep until the liquid has cooled. Strain, pressing all the liquid and flavor out of the herbs.
• In a non-aluminum saucepan combine 2 cups of herbal infusion with the sugar, lemon juice or vinegar, and the food coloring if you are using it.
• Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, and as soon as the sugar has dissolved, stir in the pectin. Return to a rolling boil, stirring, and boil for exactly 1 minute. Remove the jelly from the heat and skim off any foam.
• If you are using fresh herbs as decoration, place a fresh herb sprig in each jar and hold it in place with a sterilized spoon or chopstick. When the jelly is nearly set, remove the spoon or chopstick and the sprig will stay in place. Stir chopped herbs into the jelly before pouring it into the jar. (If the herbs do not stay suspended, stir the jelly occasionally until it thickens enough to hold.)
• Process small jars for 5 minutes in a hot-water bath or seal with a thin layer of paraffin.

Herbal Jelly

Their sweet and savory flavors really sing of summer with jewel-toned colors that are appetizing and beautiful. Herb jellies are wonderful with cream cheese and crackers or bagels. Use the lighter flavors to glaze pies, tarts, and cookies. For main dishes, melt them in a sauce pan and mix in a little dijon mustard to make an outstanding glaze for poultry of all kinds or oven roasted ribs.

Choosing which herb to use for your jelly is simple — just pick whatever grows in abundance! I like to use basil — everyone’s favorite herb — or lemon scented herbs such as lemon verbena, lemon thyme or pineapple sage. I’ve also made sage, thyme, marjoram, mint, rosemary and cilantro jellies — all are different and wonderful.

To make herbal jelly:

• Gather about 2 cups of your favorite fresh herb leaves.
• Wash and drain them, then coarsely chop and put in a medium saucepan.
• Use the bottom of a glass to crush and macerate the leaves.
• Add 2 cups of water, bring slowly to a boil, and boil for just 10 seconds.
• Remove the pan from the heat, cover and let sit for 15 minutes to release the herb leaves essential flavor.
• Strain 1 1/2 cups of this liquid from the pan and pour through the strainer again into another large, deep saucepan.
• Add 2 tablespoons of plain (unseasoned) rice vinegar (if you can’t find rice vinegar, use regular distilled vinegar), a pinch of salt and 3 1/2 cups of granulated sugar.
• Bring the mixture to a hard boil, stirring constantly.
• When the boil can’t be stirred down, add 3 ounces of liquid pectin. I covered how you can make your own homemade pectin in a previous show, so check out the show notes and please download the archive! Return to a hard boil that can’t be stirred down and boil for exactly one minute, then remove saucepan from the heat.
• Skim off any foam and pour the hot jelly into 4 hot, sterilized 1/2 pint jelly jars.
• Leave 1/2 inch head space and seal at once with sterilized 2 piece canning lids or melted paraffin.
• I often make 2 or 3 kinds of these jellies to give as little sets.

How to Make Compost Tea

• Compost in any form is a plant’s idea of gourmet health food. Made into tea, it’s the ideal liquid fertilizer, especially for young plants. Compost tea helps plants grow stronger and more productive and, evidence suggests, can protect against disease.
• Fill a metal bucket one-third full of finished compost.
• Add water to the top of the bucket.
• Let the mixture steep for three to four days.
• Strain the mixture through cheesecloth or other porous fabric into another container. Add any remaining solids to the garden or return them to the compost bin.
• Dilute the remaining liquid with water so it’s the color of weak tea.
• Apply compost tea according to each plant’s requirements. For best results, work early in the morning or on cloudy days.

Corn

The cultivation of corn (maize) (Zea mays ssp. mays) began over 8,000 years ago in Mesoamerica, a geographical area which includes central and southern Mexico, and Central America. Corn was first domesticated from teosinte (Zea mexicana), an annual grass native to this region. Wild teosinte mostly has value as a fodder plant, as it provides very little edible seeds.

The first archaeological evidence of domesticated corn comes from the San Marcos cave in Tehuacan and the Guilá Naquitz cave in the state of Oaxaca, Mexico. The corn in San Marcos cave is dated to over 5,000 years ago. The cobs from the Guilá Naquitz cave were dated to over 6200 years old.

Researches believe that humans first domesticated corn by selecting the teosinte plants that had the largest amount of edible seeds until they eventually provided a substantial food source. This method probably took several generations to produce the corn we see today. In the process, humans have transformed corn into a plant that can no longer self-sow. Modern corn requires someone to break the hard, tightly bound cob and plant the seeds. Wild teosinte, however, is very fragile and the seeds easily fall off and grow new plants. Interestingly, without human interaction, modern corn would probably cease to exist.

Home gardeners who want to grow corn may choose from several different varieties including popcorn, dent corn, flint corn, pod corn, and sweet corn. Here we’ll focus on growing sweet corn as it is the most popular for the home gardener.

Where and When to Plant:
Plant your corn in full sun and well after any risk of frost. Your corn should receive at least eight hours of sunlight a day. Soil temperatures should be about 60 degrees F for proper germination. Generally, May and June are good months to plant. If you want an early start on your corn, you can consider covering your soil with a plastic mulch, such as clear or black polyethylene, to help warm the soil and promote germination.

When you’re looking for a place to plant your corn, you should keep in mind that it’s important to separate different corn varieties as they may cross pollinate. Additionally, keep an eye out for other people in your area who are growing corn. Corn is pollinated by the wind and can easily be contaminated by other corn crops. About 1/10^th of a mile (300 meters) distance between different corn crops is recommended.

Soil and Spacing Tips:
Plant your seeds in well-draining soils. The kernels may rot if the soil doesn’t dry well and they stay too wet.

Of course, it is always a good idea to add organic compost to your soil.
Plant your seeds approximately one inch deep and space them about a foot apart in each row. If you have sandy soil, you can plant your seeds a little deeper. Planting your corn in groups of four rows works well to stimulate pollination. 32 inches between rows is a good standard distance.

Watering and Maintenance Tips:
Sweet corn requires frequent watering to produce full, healthy ears. Once the tassels appear, you should be watering at least one inch of water per week. Make sure the soil doesn’t dry out between waterings. If your area is experiencing particularly hot and dry weather, make sure to compensate and water more frequently. Corn will not do well when exposed to prolonged drought.

You should cultivate around the corn to remove weeds. Weeds can become a nightmare for home gardeners growing corn, so weed frequently.

Root Rot: If you have cool, moist soil, watch out for this problem. Improve soil drainage with compost and wait for soil temperatures to regulate.
Rust/Leaf Blight: Warmer, wetter parts of the country have problems with these diseases. There are many blight resistant varieties available. Ask your local nursery for recommended cultivars.

Wireworms/White Grubs: These pests come from soils recently planted with sod or alfalfa. Look for birds feeding on the grubs. Tilling and planting with a cover crop, such as winter peas, can help with this problem.

Corn rootworm beetles: This pest goes after corn silk on maturing cornstalks. They can cause problems with pollination. The immature beetles can be found in old corn fields, and when mature, they migrate to feed on tender, new corn. Keep on the lookout as your corn first starts to produce silk.

Corn Smut: This is a fungus that causes the kernels to swell and turn grey and black. In Mexico, it is called Huitlacoche and is consumed as a delicacy. Ask your local extension agent or nursery for smut resistant varieties. Corn smut is more common on white varieties. You can remove the smut by hand and you should destroy it so that it won’t infect other corn plants.

European corn borers: These pests bore into the stalks and can weaken them to the point of breakage. The larva is cream colored and they are about 1” long. They may eventually work their way into the corn cob. Their eggs begin to hatch in June.
Fall armyworms: This moth lays small pinkish eggs on corn leaves. Adult worms are less than two inches long. They have a Y shaped marking on the head. Late sweet corn is especially susceptible. You can plant early to avoid this pest, as armyworms are at their worst in the late fall.

Flea beetles: These pests attack in the early spring and can carry Stewart’s bacterial wilt disease. This disease will eventually stunt the growth of young corn.

The best time to harvest corn is known as the “milk stage” when the ears are fully formed but not yet ripe. This stage usually lasts about a week. You can determine when your corn is ready to harvest by looking at the silks, husks, and kernels. The silks should be brown and starting to dry, which occurs about 3 weeks after the silks first appear. They husks should hold tightly to the ear and the kernels should produce a little milky fluid when pierced. Supersweets will produce a clearer liquid. Each stalk of corn should yield at least one ear, and sometimes more.

You should harvest your corn in the cooler hours of the morning. Remove the ears of corn by twisting them at the base and pulling them off. After harvest, you can remove the cornstalks and use them as compost.

Store your corn in cool temperatures, usually around 38 degrees F, the cooler the better. If you wait too long to store your corn, you risk changing the flavor and reducing quality, as sugars begin to convert to starch almost right away in the kernels. You can cool your corn by resting it in crushed ice or placing in a container with ice water. After cooling, place your corn in plastic bags with a few small holes punched in them, and then in the refrigerator for storage. Depending on the variety, it is best to eat your corn within a few days after harvest.

Companions to Corn	Beans,  Cucumber, Dill, Pea, Potato, Melons, Pumpkin,  Squash, Sunflower
To repel predators/pest of corn	Cosmos, Geranium, Marigold, Radish (gone to seed)
Unfriendly	Tomato

Fresh Facts:

• Eat corn as soon as possible after harvest for maximum sweetness.
• If sweet corn cannot be eaten right away, leave in husks, remove long shanks and store uncovered in the refrigerator.
• When refrigerating, cool rapidly to below 40°F to retain sweetness and tenderness because the sugar in corn turns to starch quickly at higher temperatures.
• For best eating quality, do not store sweet corn in the refrigerator for more than two days. For longer storage, preserve by freezing, canning or drying.

Freezer Facts:

• Sweet corn can be frozen on the cob or cut off the cob. However, preserving will not improve the quality of the corn, so always start with high quality produce.
• Only tender, freshly gathered corn in the milk stage should be selected for freezing. Husk and trim the ears, remove silks and wash.
• Before freezing, corn must be blanched to destroy the enzymes that will cause flavor and color changes during storage.
• Corn should be packaged in moisture-vapor proof wrapping or containers for freezer storage.
• Corn can be stored in the freezer at 0°F for about 10 months.
• Frozen sweet corn may be substituted for fresh or canned corn in most recipes.

Canned Facts:

• Corn may be canned as whole kernel or cream. However, preserving will not improve the quality of the corn, so always start with high quality produce.
• Only tender, freshly gathered corn in the milk stage should be selected for canning. Husk and trim the ears, remove silks and wash.
• For cream-style corn, cut corn from cob at the center of the kernel and scrape cob at about 2/3 the depth of the kernel. Do not scrape the cob.

• Corn is a low-acid vegetable and must be processed in a pressure canner for safety. Hot packing is the only method recommended for filling jars.
• Because cream-style corn is thicker than whole kernel corn, it should be canned in pint jars only so that heat can penetrate throughout the product.
• Whole kernel canned sweet corn may be substituted for fresh or frozen corn in most recipes. Creamed corn should be used in recipes specifically calling for cream-style.

Dried Facts:

• Select sweet corn to be dried the same as for canning or freezing.
• For best quality, do not dry corn that has been freshly harvested. Remove husks and silk and wash thoroughly.
• Blanching is necessary to retain color and flavor of sweet corn during the drying process and storage.
• Corn will be dry and brittle when moisture is fully removed. Package in moisture-vapor proof containers and store in a cool dry place.
• Dried corn should be rehydrated, or refreshed, before using in recipes calling for fresh, canned or frozen corn. Drain any water left after rehydration is completed.

Cook corn in the husk; when done, remove the husk and the silk just falls away. Use the stump as a holder. Or freeze corn in the husk, no wrapping, just the husk – works great.

CANNING SWEET CORN
Sweet corn like most vegetables, is a low acid food and can only be safely and dependably processed via a pressure canner.

If you understand the basic principals of pressure canning you should have no trouble canning corn.

I use the raw pack method when canning corn because it saves time and energy.
That’s the method I’m going to share with you in this post.

Here’s how I do it:

Gather and assemble the jars, lids, bands, jar lifter, jar funnel, a non metallic tool to release air bubbles and the pressure canner.

Check to make sure ahead of time that everything is in good working order.

Visually examine the jars and check the rims to make sure that there are no cracks, nicks or sharp edges.

Wash the jars and bands in hot soapy water.
Dry the bands and set aside.
Keep the jars hot until ready to fill.

Begin to heat a kettle full of water and simmer the lids.
The water in the kettle will be poured into the jars and over the corn.

Put the recommended amount of water in the canner and begin to heat it too.

Try and time the simmering of the lids, hot water in the kettle and canner to coincide with when you will be ready to pack the jars.

Collect fresh picked sweet corn.
Be careful not to try and do more than one canner load at a time.

Husk the corn, remove the silk and rinse well with cold water.

While working quickly and without delay, cut the corn kernels from the cob and place into a bowl.

Do not scrape the cobs.
Fresh corn is very time sensitive.

Corn will turn sour if it waits too long to be packed into jars after being cut off the cob.

By now the water in the canner should be hot, the lids should be simmered and the kettle of water should be simmering too.

If you chose to add salt to your corn the standard measure is 1 teaspoon for quarts and 1/2 teaspoon for pints.

I use less than half those amounts for my corn.

Fill a hot jar with corn taking care not to pack it in too tight.
Pour boiling water into the jar and over the corn leaving a 1″ head space.

Slide a non metallic object down the sides of the jar to release any trapped air bubbles.

Wipe the rim and sides of the jar with a clean wet cloth and apply the lid and band.

Place the jar into the canner so it will remain hot while you work on filling the other jars.
Keep the water in the canner just at a simmer while you are working.

When all the jars are filled put the lid on the canner and close it.

Allow the canner to vent for 5 -10 minutes or according to your canner’s manufacturer’s instructions.

After proper venting close the petcock valve or place the weighted gauge on the canner.

Processing time is counted from the time the weight first begins to juggle or when 10 pounds of pressure is reached on the dial.

Processing time for corn is 55 minutes for Pints and 1 hour and 25 minutes for Quarts at 10 pounds of pressure.

Adjust the time if you are above 1000 feet sea level.

When the processing time is complete, carefully remove the canner from the heat or turn off the heat under the canner.
In either case allow the canner to cool naturally.

The canner is safe to open when the dial gauge reads “0″ or the weighted gauge ceases all hissing.

Always open the canner lid facing away from you. Remove the jars from the canner. and place the jars on a towel, board or thick layer of newspaper well out of the way of drafts.

Allow the jars to cool undisturbed for 8 – 12 hours.
When the jars are completely cooled check the seal.

Remove the screw band before checking the seal.

The seal is checked by gently lifting the jar by the lid The seal is checked by gently lifting the jar by the lid and pushing down into the center of the lid. The lid should be slightly concaved and have no spring to it.

If the lid bounces up and down the jar has not seal and the corn should be frozen, reprocessed or eaten promptly.

Jars should be wiped clean and stored in a cool dark place.

** A couple of hints about working with sweet corn**
Sweet corn is messy and sticky. It squirts everywhere when you cut if off the cob.

Be sure to have plenty of wet cloths while you work to wipe your hands.
You’ll probably have to clean off your knife a couple of times.

Don’t work near a window or wall if you can help it.
If you do, you’ll be cleaning windows and washing walls when you’re done.
Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Also, sometimes liquid is lost in the canning jar.
Don’t be concerned.
As long as the seal is good the food will not spoil.
If you click the photos of my finished corn you will be able to see that I lost liquid during the processing.

FREEZING CORN

Freezing corn is much simpler than canning corn and results in a product that is much fresher tasting.

When I have leftover corn from canning that is not enough to make another full canner load, I always freeze it.

Corn for freezing is prepared exactly the same way as for canning; cut from the cob and handled in small amounts.

There are several different ways to freeze corn.

Here’s what works for me:

Place the corn in a saucepan and add a small amount of water to it; just enough to barely cover the corn.

Now heat the corn over a medium for about 5 minutes.
You want the corn to simmer just a bit and to partially cook.
The corn will probably thicken a little and that’s ok.
After about 5 minutes drain the corn into a sink and add ice to the corn after it has drained.
After the corn has cooled you may have to pick out some ice if it hasn’t already melted.
Pack the cooled corn into rigid containers or into freezer bags.
Frozen corn will keep for 12 – 15 months depending upon freezer conditions.

Making and Canning Cream-Style Corn

Cream-stype corn is easy to can using this recipe and procedure.

To prepare cream-style corn for canning, blanch the ears for 4 minutes in the boiling water. Cool the ears in ice water for at least five minutes, drain, and cut the kernels from cob at about one-half of their depth. Scrape the cob with the backside of a knife to remove the remainder of the corn pulp and combine with the half-kernels.

Now, for the actual canning, wash the jars and prepare the lids according to manufacturer’s instructions. If desired, add 1 teaspoon salt per quart, 1/2 teaspoon per pint, or 1/4 teaspoon per half-pint jar.

For raw-packed whole-kernel style corn, fill the jars with the blanched corn, leaving 1 inch of head space. Add boiling water to the corn in each jar, keeping the 1 inch of head space. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean, damp paper towel, add the lids, tighten the screw bands, and process.

For hot-packed corn, add 1 cup of hot water to each quart of whole-kernel or cream-style corn in a large pan, and bring it to a boil. Fill the jars with the hot corn and cooking liquid, leaving 1 inch of head space. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean, damp paper towel, add the lids, tighten the screw bands, and process.

To process the corn in a pressure canner, place a jar rack, 2 inches of water, and the sealed jars in the canner. Fasten the lids, and heat the canner on high heat. After exhausting steam for 10 minutes, pressurize the canner. Start timing once the desired pressure has been reached. Regulate the heat to maintain the desired pressure.

For raw-pack or hot-pack whole-kernel corn, process pints for 55 minutes or quarts for 85 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure if you have a dial-gauge canner or 10 pounds of pressure if you have a weighted-gauge canner. If you live above an elevation above 1,000 feet, process at 15 pounds of pressure.

For hot-pack cream-style corn, process pints or half-pints for 85 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure if you have a dial-gauge canner or 10 pounds of pressure if you have a weighted-gauge canner. If you live above an elevation above 1,000 feet, process at 15 pounds of pressure.

When the endless processing is complete, remove the canner from heat. Air-cool the canner until it is fully depressurized, then slowly remove the weighted gauge or open the petcock. Carefully unfasten and remove the canner lid. Remove the jars from the canner with a jar lifter and place them on a towel or rack. Do not retighten the screw bands. Air-cool the jars for 12 to 24 hours. Remove the screw bands and check the lid seals. If the center of the lid is indented, wash, dry, label, and store the jar in a clean, cool, dark place. If lid is not sealed, examine and replace the jar if it is defective; use a new lid, and reprocess as before. Wash the bands and store separately.

Canned sweet corn is best if consumed within a year and safe as long as lids remain vacuum sealed.

CREAM STYLE CORN TO FREEZE

Fill 9″x13″ cake pan with 1/2 to 3/4 full of raw corn, cut from cobs. Mix in 1 cup cream and 1 cup melted butter. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes. Cool and freeze. Keeps well.

Health Benefits

Hot, fresh corn-on-the-cob is an almost essential part of any summertime party. Fortunately, it is also worthy part of any healthful menu. Our food ranking system qualified corn as a good source of many nutrients including thiamin (vitamin B1), pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), folate, dietary fiber, vitamin C, phosphorus and manganese.

Corn for Cardiovascular Health

Corn’s contribution to heart health lies not just in its fiber, but in the significant amounts of folate that corn supplies.

Folate, which you may know about as a B-vitamin needed to prevent birth defects, also helps to lower levels of homocysteine, an amino acid that is an intermediate product in an important metabolic process called the methylation cycle. Homocysteine can directly damage blood vessels, so elevated blood levels of this dangerous molecule are an independent risk factor for heart attack, stroke, or peripheral vascular disease, and are found in between 20-40% of patients with heart disease. It has been estimated that consumption of 100% of the daily value (DV) of folate would, by itself, reduce the number of heart attacks suffered by Americans each year by 10%. Folate-rich diets are also associated with a reduced risk of colon cancer. A cup of corn supplies 19.0% of the DV for folate

Supports Lung Health

Consuming foods rich in beta-cryptoxanthin, an orange-red carotenoid found in highest amounts in corn, pumpkin, papaya, red bell peppers, tangerines, oranges and peaches, may significantly lower one’s risk of developing lung cancer. A study published in Cancer Epidemiology, Biomarkers and Prevention reviewed dietary and lifestyle data collected from over 63,000 adults in Shanghai, China, who were followed for 8 years. Those eating the most crytpoxanthin-rich foods showed a 27% reduction in lung cancer risk. When current smokers were evaluated, those who were also in the group consuming the most cryptoxanthin-rich foods were found to have a 37% lower risk of lung cancer compared to smokers who ate the least of these health-protective foods.

Maintain Your Memory with Thiamin (Vitamin B1)

Corn is a good source of thiamin, providing about one-quarter (24.0%) of the daily value for this nutrient in a single cup. Thiamin is an integral participant in enzymatic reactions central to energy production and is also critical for brain cell/cognitive function. This is because thiamin is needed for the synthesis of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter essential for memory, whose lack has been found to be a significant contributing factor in age-related impairment in mental function (senility) and Alzheimer’s disease. In fact, Alzheimer’s disease is clinically characterized by a decrease in acetylcholine levels. Don’t forget to make corn a staple in your healthy diet.

Support for Energy Production, Even Under Stress

In addition to its thiamin, corn is a good source of pantothenic acid. This B vitamin is necessary for carbohydrate, protein and lipid metabolism. Pantothenic acid is an especially valuable B-vitamin when you’re under stress since it supports the function of the adrenal glands. A cup of corn supplies 14.4% of the daily value for pantothenic acid.

• The best way to store unhusked corn is to keep it wrapped in a damp cloth and try to use it within a day or two, not longer than 3-4 days if you want maximum flavor and nutrients. Unhusked corn is best stored on the refrigerator shelf, not in the crisper. Remember to keep that cornsilk. It can be used in teas and when making soaps and lotions.

A bit more about corn silk:

Corn silk is a soothing, relaxing diuretic and a wonderful remedy for acute inflammation and irritation of the genito-urinary system, such as cystitis, urethritis and prostatitis. Corn silk is particularly useful for calming bladder irritation and infection in children. Corn silk clears toxins, catarrh, deposits and irritants out of the kidneys and bladder, and has a gentle antiseptic and healing action. Corn silk makes a good remedy for frequency of urination and bedwetting due to irritation or weakness of the urinary system, and has been used for urinary stones and gravel.

By reducing fluid retention in the body, corn silk may help reduce blood pressure, and by aiding elimination of toxins and wastes from the body corn silk may relieve gout and arthritis, and act as a gentle detoxifying remedy.

Corn silk’s healing and soothing properties are helpful for relieving skin irritation and inflammation and for healing wounds and ulcers.

Chronic cystitis can be relieved with corn silk and it is a useful adjunct to other treatments for acute cystitis.
Gonorrhea – Naturopaths have used corn silk tea in the treatment of Gonorrhea and all catarrhal conditions of the urinary passage.
Chinese remedy – In China, corn silk is used to treat fluid retention and jaundice.
Other medical uses – it is also used to treat TMJ (TMD).

Uses:
Arteriosclerosis, Bedwetting, Bladder Problems, Blood Pressure (high), Cholesterol, Cystic Irritation, Cystitis, Dropsy, Edema, Gonorrhea, Heart Trouble, Jaundice, Kidney Problems, Kidney Stones, Malaria, Obesity, Prostate Problems, Renal Cystitis, Urinary Tract (inflammation), Urination (painful)

Topical problems and skin irritations as well as inflammation can also be treated effectively and benefit from the corn silk’s healing and soothing abilities – as an external or topical treatment, the corn silk is also excellent for rapidly healing wounds and all types of ulcers affecting the skin.

The corn silk also helps in the quick detoxification and rapid elimination of all accumulated toxins and metabolic wastes in the body – due to this, the remedy aids in relieving the symptoms of gout and disorders associated with arthritis. As a remedy, it is considered to have a thorough but gentle detoxifying effect on the body.

Beans

I’ve become convinced that the most cost-efficient food in our kitchen is beans, and it’s a food that people often overlook. Beans are loaded with protein and are quite flavorful, particularly as a substitute for meats in a vegetarian diet.

Nutritional benefits of beans

Beans have been proven to be a major player in the fight against cancer. Beyond that, they are high in protein, beneficial to those with diabetes, and help lower cholesterol.

Beans are good for your heart, but they do much more than that. They provide a major source of soluble fiber, which, when passing through the digestive tract grabs and traps bile that contains cholesterol, removing it from the body before it’s absorbed. Eating a cup of cooked beans a day can lower your total cholesterol by up to 10% in 6 weeks. Though that may not seem like much, it actually decreases your risk of heart disease by 20%. A study conducted at the University of Kentucky has shown that only three weeks of increased bean intake (3/4 cup of navy and pinto beans) lowered the men’s cholesterol by an average of 19%. This reduces the risk of heart attack by almost 40%. Also because of the high fiber in beans, they can curb your appetite for fattier more dangerous foods.

Those suffering from diabetes also benefit by eating beans. The soluble fiber in beans helps to create more insulin receptor sites. These sites are like tiny docks for the insulin molecules to connect to, allowing the insulin to get to the cells that need it, instead of floating freely through the bloodstream, which can cause problems. Because of the higher risk of heart disease in diabetes sufferers, beans serve an extra benefit by keeping their cholesterol low, thus reducing their risk.

In addition to these benefits, the compound found in beans have been shown to keep normal cells from turning cancerous and inhibit their growth. The soybean contains phyto-estrogens, a weaker version of the estrogen produced in our bodies naturally. Phyto-estrogens are believed to reduce the risk of breast and prostate cancer, by blocking over-activity of estrogen and testosterone which can spur cancerous tumor growth. Overall studies have shown Hispanic women have half the risk of breast cancer as white women. This disparity is believed to be due to the high content of beans in their diet.

Beans also fill many dietary requirements, including 32% of folate, 9% of potassium, and are very high in protein and fiber but low in fat. Dried or canned beans will give you the same benefit, but canned beans are high in sodium so be sure to drain and rinse well.

General Dry Bean Preparation Tips

Dry beans are by far the cheapest way to purchase beans – and much tastier and full-flavored than canned beans, in my opinion. The only drawback is that there’s some preparation work involved – but don’t worry, you can get it started before you go to work and finish pretty quickly when you get home.

It’s easy. Before you go to work, get the biggest pot you have and add a pound of beans to it (roughly two cups). On top of that, put six cups of cold water and let it sit on the counter top all day.

When you get home, pour off the water they’ve been soaking in and pick out any bean skins that might have soaked off of the bean. Put two tablespoons of oil in there (this keeps it from boiling over), then pour on six cups of fresh water, add a half a teaspoon of salt, and put the pot on the stove to boil. Get it at a gentle boil and then just let it boil there for an hour and a half or so – once you get it right, you can easily walk away from it if need be, as the oil will prevent boiling over.

In the end, you basically have bean soup. You can drain off the liquid if you want to use the beans for other purposes, or you can just eat the soup as is. However, note that most soups taste better if you add all of the other soup ingredients early in the boil. Also note that after you’ve boiled the beans, you can just drop them in a container for storage in the fridge – they’ll be fine for a day or two.

How to Grow Beans

Gardeners generally divide bean varieties into three main categories, depending on the stage at which they’re usually picked and eaten: snap, shell and dry. All are easy to grow, and all need the same growing conditions – the prime one being plenty of warmth.

• Choose a site in full sun (partial afternoon shade in very hot climates) that has well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.  (To check your soil for alkalinity, place a handful of earth in a container and pour in ½ c. white vinegar. If fizzes or bubble it is definitely alkaline).
• To see if has a high acidity, mix the earth with ½ c. water and ½ c. baking soda. If it fizzes it indicates acid in
• To find the exact PH in your soil, either have it tested or pick up a simple DIY kit from your local gardening center.
• Add organic matter that is high in phosphorus and potassium rather than nitrogen. Beans, such as peas, capture nitrogen from the air.
• Sow seeds outdoors after all threat of frost has passed and the soil temperature has reached at least 55 degrees F. Seeds should be an inch deep and two to three inches apart in rows three to four feet apart.
• Install supports for pole beans when you plant the seeds so you won’t have to disturb roots later on.
• Thin when the seedlings emerge so that bush varieties are five to six inches apart, pole beans six to eight inches. In humid climates, increase the distance between plants to allow good air circulation.
• Make sure beans get about an inch of water a week, a little more when pods are developing. Don’t over water, though – too much water causes more damage than too little.
• Mulch with compost when plants have developed their second set of leaves, and give them a feeding or two of compost tea to promote heavy yields.
• Pick snap beans when they’re young and tender, before you notice the seeds swelling. Harvest shell beans when the pods are plump but before they start turning brown. Leave dry beans on the plant until the seeds are hard and the pods dry.
• Compost plants or till them under when they’ve stopped producing pods; you’ll avoid attracting bean beetles and other unwanted multi-legged critters.

Tips & Warnings

• Beans resent having their roots disturbed.
• For beans to “fix” nitrogen (convert it for use), certain bacteria must be present in the soil. They will be if your site has been cultivated before, but if yours is a brand new garden, you’ll need to coat your seeds (before you plant them) with a powder called an innoculant, which you’ll find at nurseries and in seed catalogs. What I use to coat my seeds is just a little bit of white willow powder. I have found it works better than any chemical ‘seed starter’.
• If you want quantities of beans for preserving, plant bush varieties; they produce usually six to eight weeks after planting. Pole beans take 10 to 11 weeks to start bearing, and then keep producing until frost.
• Beans are prone to numerous diseases. You can prevent most of them by rotating crops, planting in full sun in well-drained soil, keeping your garden free of weeds. Also, when you water, aim at the ground, not the plants (wet foliage encourages disease), and after a rain, avoid working among the plants until they’ve dried off. If you smoke, be sure not to smoke around your bean plants and be sure to always wash your hands before you tend your garden. Beans and other plants are susceptible to mosaic tobacco virus.

Squash

Early pilgrims sliced of the top of the pumpkin, removed the seeds, filled it with milk, spices and honey and baked it in hot ashes; this was the forefather of today’s pumpkin pie.

The Tokyo National Cancer Institute rates winter squash at the top of the vegetable list as a factor in populations with low cancer rates. Deep orange squashes, especially, are cited as a defense against esophageal, stomach, lung, bladder, laryngeal and prostate cancer.

According to the National Cancer Institute, squash is one of the top three foods for prevention and control of lung cancer. In a study, smokers who ate 2½ servings of squash a day reduced the risk of lung cancer greatly. Also, the regular consumption of squash and other orange vegetables provides protection from second-hand smoke.

Winter squash provides not only a high amount of fiber and carbohydrates, it is rich in alpha and beta carotene, vitamins C, E, and B6, potassium, calcium, phosphorus, zinc and magnesium.

Besides the high amount of beta carotene as a cancer-fighting ingredient, squash also contains a respectable amount of vitamin C. This combination makes it an effective blocker of free radical scavengers.

Its amounts of potassium and magnesium, combined with the insoluble fiber, make squash a great food to improve cardiovascular health, lower cholesterol and prevent high blood pressure, strokes and heart attacks.

The seeds are not only a great-tasting snack but rich in essential fatty acids and protease trypsin inhibitors, which prevent the activation of viruses in the digestive tract. They also help to expel tape- and roundworms, are helpful in controlling urinary and bladder problems and constipation. In some African countries, the seeds are used as a laxative.

Health Benefits

Squash bugs are a sucking insect that form colonies. They will suck the juices from the leaves and fruit. It’s best to hunt their orange eggs laid on the undersides of leaves and mash them. Squash Bugs are difficult to get rid of once they become adults.

Phyto-nutrients that Promote Optimal Health

Although not as potent as root vegetables like burdock, garlic or onion, winter squash have been found to have anti-cancer type effects. Phytonutrient research on squash is still limited, but some lab studies have shown vegetable juices obtained from squash to be equal to juices made from leeks, pumpkin, and radish in their ability to prevent cell mutations (cancer-like changes).

Supports Men’s Health

In research studies, extracts from squash have also been found to help reduce symptoms of a condition occurring in men called benign prostatic hypertrophy, or BPH. In this condition, the prostate gland becomes problematically enlarged, which can cause difficulty with urinary and sexual function. Particularly in combination with other phytonutrient-containing foods, squash may be helpful in reducing BPH symptoms.

Promote Lung Health

Consuming foods rich in beta-cryptoxanthin, an orange-red carotenoid found in highest amounts in pumpkin, corn, papaya, red bell peppers, tangerines, oranges and peaches, may significantly lower one’s risk of developing lung cancer. A study published in Cancer Epidemiology, Biomarkers and Prevention reviewed dietary and lifestyle data collected from over 60,000 adults in China and found that those eating the most crytpoxanthin-rich foods showed a 27% reduction in lung cancer risk. When current smokers were evaluated, those who were also in the group consuming the most cryptoxanthin-rich foods were found to have a 37% lower risk of lung cancer compared to smokers who ate the least of these health-protective foods.

Additionally, if you or someone you love is a smoker, or if you are frequently exposed to secondhand smoke, then making vitamin A-rich foods, such as winter squash, part of your healthy way of eating may save your life.

While studying the relationship between vitamin A, lung inflammation, and emphysema, an associate professor of nutrition at Kansas State, made a surprising discovery: a common carcinogen in cigarette smoke, benzo(a)pyrene, induces vitamin A deficiency.

His earlier research had shown that laboratory animals fed a vitamin A-deficient diet developed emphysema. His latest animal studies indicate that not only does the benzo(a)pyrene in cigarette smoke cause vitamin A deficiency, but that a diet rich in vitamin A can help counter this effect, thus greatly reducing emphysema.

The associate professor believes vitamin A’s protective effects may help explain why some smokers do not develop emphysema. “There are a lot of people who live to be 90 years old and are smokers,” he said. “Why? Probably because of their diet…The implications are that those who start smoking at an early age are more likely to become vitamin A deficient and develop complications associated with cancer and emphysema. And if they have a poor diet, forget it.”

If you or someone you love smokes, or if your work necessitates exposure to second hand smoke, protect yourself by making sure that at least one of the World’s Healthiest Foods that are rich in vitamin A, such as winter squash, is a daily part of your healthy way of eating.

A Variety of Health-Promoting Nutrients

Winter squash, unlike its summer equivalent, can be harvested very late into the fall, has a longer storage potential, and still provides an outstanding variety of conventional nutrients. Winter squash emerged from our food ranking system as an excellent source of vitamin A (in the form of beta-carotene), a very good source of vitamin C, potassium, dietary fiber and manganese. In addition, winter squash emerged as a good source of folate, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B1, copper, vitamin B6, niacin-vitamin B3 and pantothenic acid. How does this amazing array of nutrients support our health?

One of the most abundant nutrients in winter squash, beta-carotene, has been shown to have very powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Beta-carotene is able to prevent the oxidation of cholesterol in the body. Since oxidized cholesterol is the type that builds up in blood vessel walls and contributes to the risk of heart attack and stroke, getting extra beta-carotene in the diet may help to prevent the progression of atherosclerosis.

It may also protect against diabetic heart disease and may be useful for preventing other complications caused by free radicals often seen in long-term diabetes. Additionally, intake of foods such as winter squash that are rich in carotenoids may be beneficial to blood sugar regulation. Research has suggested that physiological levels, as well as dietary intake, of carotenoids may be inversely associated with insulin resistance and high blood sugar levels.

Studies have also shown that a good intake of beta-carotene can help to reduce the risk of colon cancer, possibly by protecting colon cells from the damaging effects of cancer-causing chemicals.

Finally, beta-carotene’s anti-inflammatory effects may help to reduce the severity of conditions like asthma, osteoarthritis, and rheumatoid arthritis, which all involve inflammation.

Other nutrients found in winter squash are also useful for a number of different conditions. The potassium in winter squash may help to lower blood pressure, and the vitamin C may be able to reduce the severity of conditions like asthma, osteoarthritis, and rheumatoid arthritis and also to prevent the progression of conditions like atherosclerosis and diabetic heart disease.

Fiber to Fight Heart Disease and Colon Cancer

In addition to its ability to lower high cholesterol levels, which reduces the risk of heart disease, the fiber found in winter squash is also able to prevent cancer-causing chemicals from attacking colon cells. This is one of the reasons why diets high in fiber-rich foods have been associated with a reduced risk of colon cancer.

Folate to Help Prevent Birth Defects and Heart Attack and Support Colon Health

The folate found in winter squash may help to prevent certain birth defects if taken by women before and during pregnancy. Folate is also needed by the body to break down a dangerous metabolic byproduct called homocysteine, which can directly damage blood vessel walls. Since high levels of homocysteine are associated with an increased risk for heart attack and stroke, getting plenty of folate in the diet is a good idea.

Folate has also been shown to help protect colon cells from the effects of cancer-causing chemicals. In fact, diets high in folate-rich foods are associated with a significantly reduced risk of colon cancer, especially in people who have a history of alcohol use.

Description

Winter squash are relatives of the melon and the cucumber, and come in many different varieties. While each type varies in shape, color, size and flavor, they all share some common characteristics. Their shells are hard and difficult to pierce, enabling them to have long storage periods between one and six months. Their flesh is mildly sweet in flavor and finely grained in texture. Additionally, all have seed-containing hollow inner cavities.

Varieties of winter squash include:

• Butternut squash: Shaped like a large pear, this squash has cream-colored skin, deep orange-colored flesh and a sweet flavor.
• Acorn squash: With harvest green skin speckled with orange patches and pale yellow-orange flesh, this squash has a unique flavor that is a combination of sweet, nutty and peppery.
• Hubbard squash: A larger-sized squash that can be dark green, grey-blue or orange-red in color, the Hubbard’s flavor is less sweet than many other varieties.
• Turban squash: Green in color and either speckled or striped, this winter squash has an orange-yellow flesh whose taste is reminiscent of hazelnuts.
• Pumpkins: The pumpkin with the most flesh and sweetest taste is the small sized one known as sugar or pie pumpkin, the latter referring to its most notable culinary usage.

Recommended optimum storage conditions for pumpkins and winter squashes

Type	Relative Humidity	Temperature Conditions	Approx. Length of Storage	Remarks
Pumpkins	50 to 75%	50 to 55oF	2 to 3 months	Fruit should be mature. Don’t store with apples.
Hubbard	70 to 75%	50 to 55oF	5 to 6 months	Stores well.
Acorn	50 to 75%	50oF	5 to 8 weeks	At temperatures >55oF, surface becomes yellow and flesh becomes stringy.
Butternut or Buttercups	50 to 75%	50oF	2 to 3 months	Degree of maturity not as important as for other types.

When winter squash are removed from storage, they should be marketed or consumed immediately, as rot can develop quickly. Black rot, dry rot, and bacterial soft rot are the principal causes of spoilage in stored winter squash.

Plant winter squash after all danger of frost is passed and the ground has warmed. Site your squash bed in an area that gets 6 to 8 hours of sun each day. It is customary to plant them in raised ‘hills’. This keeps the roots warmer and drier than planting in furrows. Winter squash prefer well drained soil that isn’t constantly wet, although they do like lots of water to produce the fruits.

Make sure you give your squash vines plenty of room, they can spread and cover an area more than ten feet square. There are varieties with semi-vining qualities that are shorter, and some of the minis are available in bush varieties though.

Winter squash have a few pests that must be watched for. Squash Vine Borers are reddish colored moths that lay their eggs at the base of the plants, and the larvae bore inside the stems to destroy the vines. Wrapping the base of the vines in foil or applying an approved insecticide to the base of the vines will help control them. Do not spray the leaves or the flowers, as you can be killing the bees that are necessary to pollination.

Squash bugs are a sucking insect that form colonies. They will suck the juices from the leaves and fruit. It’s best to hunt their orange eggs laid on the undersides of leaves and mash them. Squash Bugs are difficult to get rid of once they become adults.

Summer Squash

Unlike winter squash, summer squash can be eaten rind, seeds, and all.  The different varieties vary in size, shape, and color, but they can be used interchangeably in recipes.  Select summer squash that’s small and firm.

Since summer squash have a high water content, they are not as nutrient-dense as the winter varieties.  Summer squash still provide several nutritional benefits.  They are low in calories and provide a decent amount of vitamin C, potassium, and carotenes.

Studies have shown that juice made from summer squash is equal to juice made from pumpkins, leeks, and radishes in their ability to prevent cell mutations. Summer squash are especially beneficial during the summer months due to their higher water content.
They protect against dehydration and the carotenes help to protect against the damaging effects of spending too much time in the  sun.

Zucchini- Straightneck- Crook Neck- patty pan- scallop squash.

How to Select and Store

Winter squash is easily prone to decay, so it is important to carefully inspect it before purchase. Choose ones that are firm, heavy for their size and have dull, not glossy, rinds. The rind should be hard as soft rinds may indicate that the squash is watery and lacking in flavor. Avoid those with any signs of decay, which manifest as areas that are water-soaked areas or moldy.

Winter squash has a much longer storage life than summer squash. Depending upon the variety, it can be kept for between one week to six months. It should be kept away from direct exposure to light and should not be subject to extreme heat or extreme cold. The ideal temperature for storing winter squash is between 50-60°F (about 10-15°C). Once it is cut, cover the pieces of winter squash in plastic wrap and store them in the refrigerator, where they will keep for one or two days. The best way to freeze winter squash is to first cut it into pieces of suitable size for individual recipes.

The best way to store summer squash

Summer Squash is a delicate vegetable that stores well but will become soft if not stored properly. If you are not planning to use Summer Squash immediately after bringing it home from the market, be sure to store it properly as it can lose up to 30% of some of its vitamins as well as much of its flavor.

Summer Squash continues to respire (breathe) even after it has been harvested. Summer Squash Will Remain Fresh for Up to 5 Days When Properly Stored

Proper storage is such an important step in preserving Summer Squash

1. Place Summer Squash in a plastic storage bag before refrigerating. I have found that it is best to wrap the bag tightly around the Summer Squash, squeezing out as much of the air from the bag as possible. Wrapping Summer Squash in a plastic bag will almost double its storage life by minimizing its contact with air. By properly storing Summer Squash, you will slow its rate of respiration and prevent the Squash from becoming soft. Plastic bags also help retain the internal moisture of Summer Squash and protect against the flavor loss that occurs when it loses as little as 5% of its water content. You don’t have to use any special produce bags – the ones available free at your market will work fine. And don’t worry about using plastic bags for the storage of produce because I have not found any research studies showing them to be unsafe.

1. Store Summer Squash in the refrigerator. The colder temperatures will slow the rate of respiration, helping to preserve vitamins and keeping Summer Squash fresh for a longer period of time. It is best to store Summer Squash in the crisper section (33°F-40°F) where exposure to air flow will be limited.
2. Do not wash Summer Squash before refrigeration because exposure to water will encourage your Summer Squash to spoil.
3. Handle with Care: Please handle Summer Squash carefully to prevent bruising. Any kind of cell damage can degrade its vitamin content, especially vitamin C.
4. To freeze Summer squash:  wash and slice into ½ inch discs. Bring a pot of water to boiling and drop in the squash. Boil for 3 minutes. Remove from boiling water and put into a pot or large bowl of ice water for 3 minutes. Remove and drain. Pat dry and store in freezer bags in the freezer.

PLANTING TIPS:

To grow winter squash, it’s important to first select one that is appropriate for the size of your garden, as many winter squash like to sprawl out and need plenty of space. Vining squash require a large garden, while semi-vining and bush varieties of winter squash are appropriate for smaller gardens.

To grow winter squash in the home garden, you can grow them either in rows or in hills. To grow winter squash in rows, plant the seeds about two and a half feet apart in rows that are spaced at least two feet apart. For hills, heap up your soil into a small, rounded hill. If you are planning on growing a large number or squash and have the space, you should space vining squash about seven feet between hills, with the hills being about 60 feet in size. You can plant about six seeds on each hill, ¾ of an inch deep. Allow about ten feet between rows. Plant about seven seeds and as the plants start growing, you can eliminate all but the healthiest three plants.

Timing is very important when you plant your winter squash as they are a warm season crop. Squash require warm soil to germinate and even a light frost can damage the seedlings. Plant your seeds after the last frost and test your soil temperature, which should be at least be 70 degrees F before you plant.

Plant winter squash after all danger of frost is passed and the ground has warmed. Site your squash bed in an area that gets 6 to 8 hours of sun each day. It is customary to plant them in raised ‘hills’. This keeps the roots warmer and drier than planting in furrows. Winter squash prefer well drained soil that isn’t constantly wet, although they do like lots of water to produce the fruits.

Make sure you give your squash vines plenty of room, they can spread and cover an area more than ten feet square.

Winter squash have a few pests that must be watched for. Squash Vine Borers are reddish colored moths that lay their eggs at the base of the plants, and the larvae bore inside the stems to destroy the vines. Wrapping the base of the vines in foil or applying an approved insecticide to the base of the vines will help control them. Do not spray the leaves or the flowers, as you can be killing the bees that are necessary to pollination.

Squash bugs are a sucking insect that form colonies. They will suck the juices from the leaves and fruit. It’s best to hunt their orange eggs laid on the undersides of leaves and mash them. Squash Bugs are difficult to get rid of once they become adults.

To grow Summer Squash:

Summer squash grow on bush-type plants. Unlike Winter squash that vine and are eaten when the fruit is mature, Summer squash are harvested immature while the outer rind is still soft.

For bush and semi-vining squash, plant your seeds about one inch deep, three to four seeds per hill. Allow at least six feet between rows. For semi-vining varieties, remove all but the healthiest two to three squash plants. For bush squash, you should keep only 1-2 plants per hill, depending on how big your hills are.

Daily watering is a must during the months of May and June.

Squash, along with melons and cucumbers, have a flowering habit unique among vegetables. They develop separate male and female flowers on the same plant. In order for fruit to develop, pollen must be transferred from male to female flowers. The pollen is sticky and is normally transferred by bees; however this often does not occur. So, hand pollinating is the easiest and best way to ensure fruit development and it’s easy to do.

When flowers develop, determine which are the male and female flowers by looking at the flower base. Female flowers can be recognized easily by the presence of a miniature fruit (ovary) at the base of the flower. The male squash flower can be identified by it’s long, slender stem. The female flower sets on a very short stem. Using a small artist’s paint brush, remove the yellow pollen from the male flower and brush it on the stigma in the center of the female flower. When hand-pollinating, it’s important to use only freshly opened flowers. Flowers open in the early morning and are receptive for only one day.

Don’t be discouraged if your plant(s) lack female flowers. All the early flowers will be males. Female flowers develop somewhat later, so be patient but be ready to hand-pollinate when female flowers do appear.

HARVESTING AND STORAGE TIPS:

The most important part of harvesting your winter squash is making sure you harvest them before the first frost of fall. As the squash approach maturity and are ready to harvest, you’ll notice that the stems of the squash will start to dry out and wither. Depending on where you live, you can expect to start harvesting in September and finish by October or early November.

Because of the vast varieties of sizes and colors, the rule of thumb for harvesting winter squash is when they are a full size and have a deep rich color. The rinds should be hard to the touch. If you harvest your winter squashes too early, they may lack flavor.

Leave about 2 ½ inches of the stem on the fruit. A short stem can lead to rot. This may not be possible with smaller varieties, however. In these cases, preserve as much as the stem as possible.

It’s also important not to damage your squash when harvesting and storing, as they can go bad more quickly. Try avoiding manually breaking the stem at all costs.
Store your squash in a dry place with temperatures under 60°F. If you have a large crop, don’t stack them too high as they need plenty of air to breath so they don’t prematurely rot.

Some winter squash need to be “cured” before storing. Curing your squash requires storing them in higher temperatures (around 68°F or slightly higher) for at least fifteen days. You can then move them to a cool, dry place. Never store your squash when there is a risk of freezing. Delicata and acorn squash do not need to be cured.

Another option for storage is to cut your squash into chunks and store them in freezer bags. Use your frozen squash quickly to maintain flavor. Do not store whole squash in the refrigerator, as humidity levels are much too high.

Squash growing tips:

Plant in hills

• Summer squash are picked when they’re immature and their skins are tender, normally about 50 days after planting. There are four basic types: cousa or Mid-East, scalloped or pattypan, yellow summer, and zucchini. Most summer squash grow on bushes (whereas most winter squash form vines).
• Summer squash perform well in containers. Choose a bush variety and use at least a 10-gallon container. (Half whiskey barrels are perfect.) Fill the container with potting soil enriched with compost, keep the plants well-watered, and feed with compost tea or seaweed extract every two weeks.
• According to traditional wisdom, radishes planted among summer squash will repel all sorts of pests. Don’t pick the radishes; just leave them in place to do their work.
• Unless you plan to feed the whole neighborhood, restrain yourself at planting time. Summer squash rank among the most productive members of the vegetable patch, and they don’t store well. Six plants will easily feed a family of four.

Companion Plants for both winter and summer squash:

Beans, Corn, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Radish, Sunflower, Tansy